Thanks!
Bluetti PV200S; OCV-25.6
Bluetti PV200D; OCV - 24.6
I believe they are in parallel (???) Here’s a picture showing the leads going to both panels
and a video
I have been adjusting the angle throughout :)
I had no idea about the parallel thingie :). I hope so!
The older one (2 years old) - at midday - it’s bringing in low to mid 50’ watts; the newer one (9 months old) at midday - is bringing in mid 80-'s watts.
Hi Curt,
Thanks to your video I believe I have your answer. You said “it’s 7:45 in the morning”. At this time of the day the Sun is low in the horizon, even in the desert. Let’s just rough ballpark 25 degrees altitude. When you tilt your panel you cannot exceed a tilt more than the altitude of the Sun or your panel will start to face away from the light. This means if the Sun is at 60 degrees you can tilt 30 degrees more to maintain perfect alignment, but the inverse is not possible, you can’t tilt a panel 60 degrees on a 30 degree Sun and get 90 degrees. It won’t be perpendicular.
Assume your panel is perfectly pointed at the Sun. At 25 degrees the power output would “at most” be SIN(25) X power output. So SIN(25) X 400 or .42X400 = 168 watts . You’ll lose around another 10% due to heat loss/conversion/etc. would be around 128 watts. So if where you were at the angle of sun was 30 degrees that would equate to 50% power minus a few percentage points for heat/conversion losses. That puts it right around the 180 watt mark I saw in the video.
Now if you only ever get this output at 12/1/2PM, then there is something up.
You can take a soup/food can and place it on the solar panel. The shadow underneath the can should be very minimal. if you see a shadow to the left or right, you are horizontally unaligned, you need to reposition either left or right to align toward the Sun. If you see a shadow below or above the can you need to adjust the tilt of your panel up and down.
PURPOSELY MISALIGNED PANEL
ALIGNED PANEL
Solar alignment trackers are dirt cheap on Amazon. I like them because I can adjust the perfect angle on the fly due to the fact I can leave the tracker attached to the panel. With the free can method you sort of have to adjust in micro increments, constantly testing and readjusting until the shadow is gone so for me its worth the $10 expense.
Thanks for checking it out and for the soup can idea and the solar alignment trackers - love it! I’m afraid, though, that the input at 7:45 AM was 110 and the output was 180
At 10 AM and clear skies - soup can aligned - thank you! - the 2 200W panels are bringing in 116 W.
At midday, with the panels flat on the ground and pointing directly at the sun, I’ve been getting around 120-135 watts…
I’ve been using portable panels to power various Bluetti’s (AC200/AC180) for about 2 years. I assumed I was getting good input and didn’t bother checking until last week when I spied in a Bob Wells video that his 300-watt solar panel on his car was providing over 350 watts to the AC200… My mouth gaped open and I started researching. ’
I also saw this on the forums…
“I am asking because I am not sure if there is something wrong with my PV200 panel. It has been peaking at only about 135 to 140 watts output in direct sun, which equates to only about 65 to 70 percent in pretty good conditions. I have other PV series panels and have had much better results in similar conditions”
He was getting about the same output from the solar panels as me - with half the panels - and was worried that he was getting too little.
Hi @Cort
Let’s isolate what the panels output by themselves. Plug just one of the solar panels into the Elite 200 and then go into the Bluetti app and access your power station, then tap the PV button. It will show you detailed information about what the current volts and amps is. You can use “offline” mode of the app to retrieve this information and you don’t need to sign in or anything. Basically I what I would like you to do is lay both panels flat. Measure the output of one, and then measure the output of the other. So if you are getting say 140 watts in parallel theoretically that would mean if both panels were in good working order they are outputting 70 each, but if one was outputting 120 and the other just 20 you’ll get the same end result, but the 2nd panel is damaged/not working properly. Isolate them and test to ensure they are both working. Let me know what the volts, amps, and watts is of panel #1 and panel #2.
I hear you. I have the original Gen 1 PV350 and I can get 395 watts. I also have the newer generation PV350 panel (with buttons and not velcro) I can never get more than 300 watts sadly. Haze can also kill a panel’s performance in half. I’m in the Midwest and we got caught up in Canadian wildfires and I noticed it the other day while camping.
Not 100% but the standard XT60 to MC4 connector at 16 AWG may be limiting the current to 8 amps. I tested my AC70 with my PV350 and sure enough I was getting around 8A with good sun.
@BLUETTI_CARE Can you confirm what current (amperage) the default standard XT60 to MC4 connector that came with the Elite 200 can handle?
Thanks. As breakdowns often do this is opening up a new world.
I downloaded the Bluetti app, added the 200 to it, laid the panels flat, disconnected the older solar panel.
It’s 12pm - sun is directly overhead, clear skies, upper 80’s.
The newer panel:
volts - 16.4V
watts - 55 W
Older panel:
volts - 16.2 V
watts - 87 W
Interesting that the older panel is doing better than the newer panel (which is a stiffer and harder to use).
Both together:
Volts: 17.1 V
Watts: 139 W
I asked AI Perplexity how many amps this is - it said it was getting 8.1 amps - which aligns with your finding…
Lastly, I’m at 6500 ft elevation - should be getting lots of sun power.
Interesting question. (I am really learning a lot).
When I asked AI Perplexity (which has been very helpful) about this. It said
The default standard XT60 to MC4 connector that comes with the Bluetti Elite 200 V2 is rated to handle a maximum current of 20 amps (20A) from solar panels
Another query found that the AC200 can handle a maximum of 900 watts of solar power. This time it said it can handle 15 AMPS but I appear to be well below that.
Is it cutting the solar inputs down to 8.1 amps and, if it is, why?
So then another question to ask is, is the Bluetti Elite 200 throttling the amperage when the voltage is below a certain mark. I read that at around 16V or so its limited to 8.2A at max. In your case the default non-advanced mode would throttle to 8.2A below 30V which is likely what you are experiencing. Note anything below 16V will be 8A regardless of advanced or non-advanced mode.
EDIT: Look at what we have here. Credit to @Snips1 !
I went to “advanced settings” and went to DC input source and selected PV.
No change in the solar power inputs - still at 138 W with both panels. It says max grid input is 12 amps - it appears I’m getting around 8, though.
So this thing is designed to charge very, very slowly?
“I read that at around 16V or so its limited to 8.2A at max. In your case the default non-advanced mode would throttle to 8.2A below 30V which is likely what you are experiencing. Note anything below 16V will be 8A regardless of advanced or non-advanced mode.”
Having to worry about this big powerbank getting discharged with 2 200 watts of solar power just by running Starlink and a computer plus odds and ends in full sunlight is really disappointing! I don’t know how other people are getting such high inputs.
I do see that connecting the solar panels in series will boost the voltage up.
Did you disconnect and reconnect the PV/solar (From the powerstation end) after doing so or leave it plugged in the entire time after making the changes?
No I didn’t. I just unplugged it and it’s the same.
I connected them in series - Apparently, I need to hit 35 V. AI says that connecting 2 200-volt panels together in series should get them to 35-40 volts, and it;s getting 33-34 volts!
The power flowing into the Bluetti is the same - 121 w - I guess it’s close but just missing the mark.
If that’s the solution that’s fine - I’ll get another portable solar array.
Running in series is an effective way to bypass the 30V throttling since you’ll generally be above that under optimal conditions. Keep in mind that when you run them in series the same current flows through both panels. This means that even if one panel is completely in the Sun and only 25% of one panel is shaded, but that 25% caused the current on that panel to dip to say 3A, your array is now 3A, and your power would be 16-20V@3A or around 45-60W. TLDR - Make sure BOTH panels are not shaded obviously. Shading just 1 panel kills power for both.
If you are getting only 121 watts and its at 33V minimum, that is only 3.6A (121/33= 3.6). So in series the entire array is only 3.6A?! If thats in full sun, something is dragging it down. One panel is shaded or misaligned. There’s dust or debris on one of them etc. Otherwise that is NOT normal.
Also both need perfect alignment as well. Point panel #1 at the Sun and panel #2 away from the Sun, the array will be the LOWEST current of the two, so if its 0A due to the fact you are facing the 2nd panel away from the Sun, you’ll get nothing. Group is only as fast as its slowest member type of deal. I say this because in your video I noticed you had one panel facing one way and another facing at a different angle. 3.6A would be the lowest amp rating of the panel you have facing the MOST away from the Sun for example. So if I had one panel perfectly aligned getting 9A and the 2nd panel facing at an unoptimal angle only getting 1A, if I joined them in series, I’m going to get just 1A.
Another thing is in parallel your panel current should be doubling and the fact that is not leads me to believe perhaps the MPPT algorithm is not making adjustments to the changes you made. If you lay your panels flat and say you get 17V and 8A for each of them when laid flat, if you connect them in parallel you should get around 17V and 16A. A firmware update may be available to fix this irregularity perhaps. I am assuming of course the cables and the connectors are rated to handle 16A in the configuration and not the 8A limit of the XT60 connector as stated before. I’m not 100% on all of this just food for thought. So is the array in parallel truly limited to 8A based on what cables and connectors you have is what I’m saying essentially. If the cables and the XT60 ARE rated to handle the 20A then possibly a firmware update can fix this. If its a physical limitation, then no software update will ever fix it. You can do your part by eliminating outside variables such as making sure both panels are not shaded and are perfectly aligned.
I vote for something wrong. Both panels were flat on the ground pointing just about straight up at the sun. The voltage just went over 35 and the watts remained the same - 119.
I assume the cables that came with Bluetti are OK. There is one that is attached in series from one 200W panel to the other…They don’t seem different in size to the Bluetti’s, though.
Thanks - I will get in touch with technical support.