Jim, are you sure on that? The aviation input cable is only included when purchasing an AC200 and was not part of the extra charging brick. If you received an aviation input charging cable with your second charging brick order you should now have two total input cables. Do you have two?
The items pictured below on the accessory brick are: the brick, the ac power to the brick cord and the 8mm female to XT90 yellow connector. No aviation charging input cable is pictured
I have contacted Bluetti with your order number and asked that they get you a replacement cable with correct polarity sent out to you.
My mistake. You are correct. The Aviation plug charging cable came with the AC200P.
Order #Bluetti-US4408 placed Feb 18
I have only one cable - the one I fixed,
Jim K
Thanks, Scott. I’ll let you know if i hear from them. So far, nothing
Another question - I have a 2019 Ford Transit with 4 upfitter switches - 2 supply 12VDC at 20 amps and 2 supply 40 amps. These are hot only when the ignition switch is on, or, for when one of the 40 amp connections, when the engine is running. Which should I use for charging the AC200P in car mode?
Any of the switches should be fine capacity wise. If you dont have a need for one of the 40s for something else, I would use one of those just for max voltage
I ordered online two of the connectors for the 12V/25A output of the AC200P. When they come in, I’m going to wire a couple of XT90 connectors in parallel to one of them and connect them to a fridge and A/C unit that have total draw less than 25A - even on startup and see how it works. Anything I should be concerned about? Thanks
Not sure what you mean by an “AC” unit, but if you mean an air conditioner, it would run on most likely 120V AC current. The25 amp aviation output port is a 12 volt DC output.
If you are referring to using 12 volt DC current, your idea should work fine. In fact, XT60 connectors would be more than capable of handling the current for a split 25 amp load. Your limiting factor will be the max wire size you will be able to use to connect two of the wires to a single contact of the Aviation output connector you bought. You could run a single XT90 connector to the aviation output connect you bought and then by an XT90 parallel connector that would connect to your XT90 connector. This would keep you from trying to solder two wires to each aviation connector terminal.
It is a 12VDC air conditioner Zero Breeze
The 12 volt zero breeze version? If so you should be fine
It’s actually 24VDC, but they sell a 12V to 24V adapter
It sounds like it will use quite a few amps. That plus the fridge may be pushing it. You may be better off using ac through the AC adapter for your small air conditioner
I just read the zero breeze specs. They state the 12 volt to 24 volt is only for use to charge their 24 volt battery and to not use it to directly power their ac unit.
I have emails from them saying to use their adapter to power the unit
I ran the Zero Breeze through the inverter for several hours and the max draw through the AC200P was 202 watts. Ran the fridge through the AC200P 12V and it peaked at 48 watts, so the total max was 250 watts. I figured the 202watts through the inverter would be less coming through the 12V output due the loss in the inverter. The 12V 25A output would be capable of 300 watts, so I thought I’d be able to run both on the 12V 25A. Sound reasonable?
I am not seeing the advantage of running the DC port at capacity. The DC output has losses associated with the conversion as well as having to upconvert to 24 vdc again. The AC inverter has losses as well but I think you will find them to be less. Without a proven test, I am not seeing why there is an advantage to run all DC. If I were a betting man, I would put my money on running off of AC would be the most efficient.
Thanks. Isn’t the Amazon piece the opposite male/female orientation of what I would want? Coming out of the AC200P aviation plug should be a female connector - the parallel connector should be a single male splitting to a dual female. Correct? I think the parallel connector on Amazon is for connecting two batteries to a single load, not splitting a single voltage source to two different loads.
The aviation connector available on Amazon can be configured to be either type male or female there is a ring inside that you remove in the inner contacts can be swapped from either housing.
The XT 90 connector link I showed was just an example. You will have to search for the male-female configuration to suit your needs.
Hi Scott,
I got one of the Transit 12V 40 amp upfitter switches wired to charge the AC200P while driving. The Transit voltage is 14V. Went for an 80 mile drive and the input power for car charge was 113 watts. It went from 76% charge to 81%. Does that sound about right for car charging?
I’ve got 4 upfitter switches in the Transit, two at 20 amps and two at 40 amps. I used one of the 40 amp ones to charge the AC200P while driving, and the two 20 amp ones to run a fridge and fan while driving. I have one 40 amp one unused as of now. Could I use it to power an inverter and use its output to charge the AC200P while driving? Any specs on the AC output of an inverter that the AC 200P needs? I have dual batteries and the heavy duty 250 amp alternator in the Transit.
And I haven’t heard anything from Bluetti about getting a replacement aviation cable for the reversed polarity one I got with my AC200P.
Thanks
That sounds about right for charging the AC200 via CAR CHARGE mode. I recently have been experimenting at home with using a transformer that converts 24 volts from a battery I have and outputs 48 volts. I can get 575 watts of charging power that way. The same company also has a 12 volt version that I think would work well connected directly to a vehicle battery (instead of going the AC inverter route which will give you only a little less than 400 watts incoming and you have to use the brick as well) The same power converter company in the link below makes a 20 amp 12 volt to 48 converter that should work well. I have included my recent write up on what I did at home. The same concept could work for you and all you would have to do is connect it via your aviation / XT90 cable with no power brick involved and get higher rate of charge to boot.
You would want to mount it as close to your battery as possible while still being out of the weather and would need heavier wire than I used on the battery to converter. The shorter the wire run from your battery the better and thinner wire you could use.