The 12 volt zero breeze version? If so you should be fine
It’s actually 24VDC, but they sell a 12V to 24V adapter
It sounds like it will use quite a few amps. That plus the fridge may be pushing it. You may be better off using ac through the AC adapter for your small air conditioner
I just read the zero breeze specs. They state the 12 volt to 24 volt is only for use to charge their 24 volt battery and to not use it to directly power their ac unit.
I have emails from them saying to use their adapter to power the unit
I ran the Zero Breeze through the inverter for several hours and the max draw through the AC200P was 202 watts. Ran the fridge through the AC200P 12V and it peaked at 48 watts, so the total max was 250 watts. I figured the 202watts through the inverter would be less coming through the 12V output due the loss in the inverter. The 12V 25A output would be capable of 300 watts, so I thought I’d be able to run both on the 12V 25A. Sound reasonable?
I am not seeing the advantage of running the DC port at capacity. The DC output has losses associated with the conversion as well as having to upconvert to 24 vdc again. The AC inverter has losses as well but I think you will find them to be less. Without a proven test, I am not seeing why there is an advantage to run all DC. If I were a betting man, I would put my money on running off of AC would be the most efficient.
Thanks. Isn’t the Amazon piece the opposite male/female orientation of what I would want? Coming out of the AC200P aviation plug should be a female connector - the parallel connector should be a single male splitting to a dual female. Correct? I think the parallel connector on Amazon is for connecting two batteries to a single load, not splitting a single voltage source to two different loads.
The aviation connector available on Amazon can be configured to be either type male or female there is a ring inside that you remove in the inner contacts can be swapped from either housing.
The XT 90 connector link I showed was just an example. You will have to search for the male-female configuration to suit your needs.
Hi Scott,
I got one of the Transit 12V 40 amp upfitter switches wired to charge the AC200P while driving. The Transit voltage is 14V. Went for an 80 mile drive and the input power for car charge was 113 watts. It went from 76% charge to 81%. Does that sound about right for car charging?
I’ve got 4 upfitter switches in the Transit, two at 20 amps and two at 40 amps. I used one of the 40 amp ones to charge the AC200P while driving, and the two 20 amp ones to run a fridge and fan while driving. I have one 40 amp one unused as of now. Could I use it to power an inverter and use its output to charge the AC200P while driving? Any specs on the AC output of an inverter that the AC 200P needs? I have dual batteries and the heavy duty 250 amp alternator in the Transit.
And I haven’t heard anything from Bluetti about getting a replacement aviation cable for the reversed polarity one I got with my AC200P.
Thanks
That sounds about right for charging the AC200 via CAR CHARGE mode. I recently have been experimenting at home with using a transformer that converts 24 volts from a battery I have and outputs 48 volts. I can get 575 watts of charging power that way. The same company also has a 12 volt version that I think would work well connected directly to a vehicle battery (instead of going the AC inverter route which will give you only a little less than 400 watts incoming and you have to use the brick as well) The same power converter company in the link below makes a 20 amp 12 volt to 48 converter that should work well. I have included my recent write up on what I did at home. The same concept could work for you and all you would have to do is connect it via your aviation / XT90 cable with no power brick involved and get higher rate of charge to boot.
You would want to mount it as close to your battery as possible while still being out of the weather and would need heavier wire than I used on the battery to converter. The shorter the wire run from your battery the better and thinner wire you could use.
One other thought you could probably take a single wire from each of the 40 amp switches and combine that so you would have enough power to use to connect to one of the transformers. That way you wouldn’t have to wire directly to the battery
Hi Scott,
Thanks for the reply.
I read your post on the fb group. Sounds very encouraging!!
So…I could get a step-up transformer that takes 12V up to 48V to use on the PV input. Would the setting need to be PV or CAR?
Would this work for me? https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Big-Size-Waterproof-Converter-Regulator/dp/B01LYVSL53/ref=psdc_10967761_t3_B07BMRXZ2W
Also, I just looked at the power adapter for the AC200P and it says the output is 58.8VDC. Could I connect my unused Transit 12VDC 40A upfitter switch output to a step up transformer to charge the AC200P through the 120VAC port?
This would allow me to do dual charging while driving from two separate 12V 40 amp each upfitter switches. I would just need to get a connector used for the AC input and wire it to the output of the step-up transformer.
The output of the AC adapter is 58.8VDC. What would the output of a step-up transformer need to be to use it to charge through the AC port?
Thanks
Jim K
My upfitter switches in the Transit are factory installed and are accessible from behind the glovebox. We ran 10gauge wire from the access points back under the floor mat and front seat back to the cargo area ( about 10-12ft ) and then soldered 12gauge wire on for the last foot of the cable to mate up with the aviation cable.
The setting on the AC200 would need to be set to PV for fast charging via the aviation connector.
I do not think the power converter you sent in the link would work. In my experience you do not want to run anything at full load continually. With that unit even if the power was usable you would be running right at point of overload at all times which would not work for long.
You can only use the exact voltage spec that the AC power brick is for charging through the AC input charge port so no you could not charge through that port as asked.
You are going to be pulling around 50 amps of 12 volt power whether you are running an AC inverter to power an AC charging brick or whether you connect to a larger size (like I gave the link to) 12 volt to 48 volt step up DC converter. To get 50 amps of power from your vehicle battery you are going to need some larger wire from the battery to the inverter or converter. The wire leading from the DC step up converter can be 12 ga since it will now be at 48 volts and around 12 amps max. You may be able to connect a wire from one of your 40 amp switches and another wire to your other 40 amp switch and combine the two wires to have double the 40 amp capacity. This may be sufficient to power a step up transformer.
You don’t have a lot to lose to try the step up converter you gave the link to. It will either work or it will not, my main concern is the heat it will generate and it overloading since the AC200 is going to try to pull 12 amps from it. If it was me I would spend the extra money and get the 20 amp converter and it will run it at 12 amps so heat should not be an issue and it will last longer. If you get them from Amazon and it does not work, simply return it and try something else.
Here is what I am going to buy personally to connect to my vehicle. I will choose this because I have experience with another similar unit and it is easy to return if needed. They have many versions. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BMRXZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thanks, Scott.
I’m trying to figure this out.
The one I sent you the link of is 12V in and 48V 8A out. That means 384 watts out.
At 100% efficiency that means 32 amps in @ 12V. The Transit upfitter switch is a 40A supply and the alternator output is 14V (which would be 27.4A for 384 watts) and I ran 10 gauge wire - which I think should handle the current
Will the AC200P try to draw 12 amps at 48V from a transformer that can only put out 8 amps? That’s the part I’m not knowledgeable about.
Thanks
Jim K
You are going to be running the converter at 100% of its rated load for long periods of time. In my opinion, the converter will have a very short lifespan and will run very hot. You dont have much to lose by trying it. I purchased the same unit but with a 24 volt output about a year ago. It and my 10 ga wiring ran too hot for my comfort
The AC200 will draw everything out of the converter up to the converters capacity since the AC200 will try to draw up to 12 amps and the 8 amp capacity of the converter is less than the 12 amp demand
Thanks, Scott.
I’m still trying to understand this.
So the AC200P will be a 12 amp load no matter what the input voltage is?
Correct. The AC200 will try to pull all the available electricity up to its maximum capacity of 12 amps regardless of the incoming voltage. The higher the incoming voltage is, the more watts of charging power you will receive. You don’t have to supply the AC200 with 12 amps of supply, but when you do, the supply will be functioning at whatever its full capacity is and basically running at 100%. I am always of the opinion that you do not want to run any device at full load for a long period of time.
I just ordered one of these to try. I am going to connect it to my vehicle directly to the battery with a 50 amp anderson connector with about 2 feet of four ga. wire. I will connect the 48 volt output with a 6 foot piece of 10 ga wire terminated with an XT90 connector that I will use to connect the AC200 aviation cable to. My hope is that I am able to charge from my vehicle alternator at approx. 575 watts or use a 12 volt lead acid battery bank to do the same. This unit is capable of outputting 15 amps and it will be running at a 12 amp rate which is close to capacity so I will see how it runs.
If I were going to do this long term or rely on this method of charging, I would find a product from Victron and pay the money to upgrade the quality. I am strictly experimenting at this point.