Anyone with Smart Home Panel Installed?

I received my Smart Home Panel upgrade kit for EP500Pro and installed it yesterday. It looks like this modification isolates neutrals from the panel in both Disconnect (0) and Grid (2) selections. Only the Connected mode (1) has the neutrals from EP500/Pro connected to the panel. The wires that came with my kit were short, it was a tight fit to reach the neutral bar (I had to use one slot beneath the large wire connector). Likewise the module wire was a tight fit to reach the transfer switch.

Has anyone installed the Smart Home Panel to an existing main or other subpanel yet? If so would you please share how it has been working? Any tips/lessons learned or changes to breaker configuration in your setup? I plan to transfer only 20A breakers and have almost all of them as AFCI. I’m not planning on using any double pole breakers.

It would be nice to hear from others’ experience!

I want to clarify the above post (since I see that others are referencing it in discussions about transfer switches/AC300). The post is referring to EP500Pro output wires to the panel as it relates to the neutral bar. This configuration may be similar to AC300 (I believe only the output wires from the units are different between them in relation to SubPanel).

Note the neutral from each EP500Pro output are connected together (dual units) but isolated from the neutral bar except in Connected mode (1) – [EP500Pro supplying power]

However, for the inputs wires into the EP500Pro - the neutral are again connected to each other (dual units), but isolated from the neutral bar except in Grid mode (2) – [EP500Pro power is bypassed]

Hope this helps others. If your setup or experience is different please let us know. If anyone else has additional experience with Smart Home Panel please share!

Hi @PowerMat, Looks like you are one of the few with a panel so far. I’ve been looking at getting one. The info is a bit ‘light’ though. (Hence my post https://community.bluettipower.com/t/bluetti-smart-home-panel-tutorial/2556

Do you have any pictures of yours to share?

Hi @PowerMat , I do also have similar setup with yours. This is actually my 2nd replacement of the EP500/Pro. I only have one machine.

My critical loads are connected to only L1 , 1-2, 5-6, 9-10, …

I’m still getting the same alerts when selected Machine Mode (1) and panel grid ON. I had stop my testing cause that’s how they broke. After double/triple checking my connections . I told bluetti support that their internal may be the problem.

I got the 011. H-Bus Voltage Hight and 012. BUS Voltage High alerts.

I’m still working with support to resolve this.

Did you get similar alerts?

Here’s the instructions they sent me:

Hi @sparky I don’t have the panel installed yet, only installed the upgrade parts supplied into the panel.

That said, I did take some pictures. The Smart Home Panel itself is well-built – simple and solid construction in my opinion. I do like the EP500 4 prong locking connectors better than the 3 prong AC300 connectors in the manual. It does look like something I would want to keep attached to the house for a long time. Hopefully the issues will be worked out. I think the simplicity will allow other (newer) devices to also be supported in the future.


1 Like

Hi @ryangamo I don’t have the panel installed yet, but this is concerning to hear. Are you saying that you receive the alerts as soon as the grid power is switched ON or as soon as you switch to Mode 1? Or do you get these sometime afterwards? Do you get these errors even if you are in Mode1 with the Smart Home Panel input breakers off? – Meaning, the high voltage coming in on the neutral wires and that’s why the EP500 is altering?

Do you by chance have pictures of how your Smart Home Panel is hooked up to your main or sub panel? I’m interested in understanding the neutral connections as it relates to your alerts.

Hi @PowerMat , the alert was on Mode 1 and grid power was turned on.

However, I was able to figure out the issue. As you identified, the neutral wire is isolated to the bluetti subpanel. One of my load, the GFI outlet was wired incorrectly.

When I traced all the critical load wiring to the subpanel, I noticed that my electrician had forgotten to disconnect the neutral wire from the MAIN panel ground/neutral bus bar. This was probably because the GFI outlet was right next to the main panel. I disconnected the neutral wire of the GFI from the main to directly to the neutral of bluetti subpanel. That fixed the issue.

Key takeaways. Make sure ALL neutral wires of the load in the subpanel are isolated to its own neutral bus bar.

1 Like

Thank you for letting us know, this is reassuring! It’s good to share these types of issues with the community so we can all understand together.

It would be awesome if you could also share some pictures. Do you have AFCI breakers, and are those working well when the grid power goes out and is restored? I’m looking forward to having the Smart Home Panel hooked up soon.

No AFCI breakers… working as expected… just need to try my solar panel …
took a pic …

2 Likes

Nice! You’ve found tandem breakers. Are those type QT? I wasn’t sure if those would fit, but it looks like it works perfectly and gives you 12 loads.

How many amps/watts are you usually running out of the single unit?

1 Like

Thanks for posting the picture.
“No AFCI breakers” - do you mean they aren’t supported, or that you just haven’t got them installed yet?

Thanks for posting the pics. Good luck with the install.

Yes they’re QT type. However, they are slightly wider for the cover slots so had to trim of the dividers to fit to close cover.

Based on my sense monitoring, I average around 600w.

I have my water heater, furnace, fridge , my entertainment center (tv, streaming device, receivers/speakers ) , internet devices, lights that are intermittent on … also have basement pumps connected.

Not familiar with ACFI breakers and don’t have them.

By the way, I tested my pv200 solar panels , works as expected.

AFCI breakers are apparently required for bedrooms in the USA since the NEC electrical code in 2000. My house is from 2005 and has these for the bedrooms, but not the “office” (which is a bedroom really).

There’s a useful article https://homeinspectioninsider.com/common-questions-afci-requirements/

It looks like newer construction houses will have a lot of these.

1 Like