Cool!
I love that it has a locking mechanism.
What a weird name (dogbone). I never wud have found it had it not been for you.
Many Thanks!!!
I just emailed Bluetti for an update on the P030A since mine still hasn’t arrived. They replied saying they didn’t get enough in Feb and now it’s April for me! This is crazy. What are the odds it’s really April? I can’t use the AC300 package as intended without the P030A. At this rate it’s going to be 8 months (or more) since the initial purchase before I have everything and can properly use it.
Sorry to hear about your p030a being further delayed. I received the tracking number for my p030a late last week and ups has it on the way. Says delivery Saturday February 26. My order was submitted mid September. Apparently lots of people must have ordered the 2 ac300 bundles.
I was waiting for the p030a as well in order to hook to my transfer switch. Since I didn’t have it, I purchased a tt30p-L14-30R adapter cable and was able to start using the ac300 one at a time to test out the units.
Wow! I asked for a free T500 ( & they sent it to me) for my delay getting my 2-AC300 bundles. Got everything I ordered 1st wk. of Feb. Question:. How is the Bluetti sub-panel different than other brands of sub-panels? I was thinking of buying a sub-panel from Lowes or Hm. Depot. There is a big price difference in getting them outside of Bluetti.
FYI: Unfortunately, the Bluetti sub panel is currently not UL (formerly Underwriters Laboratories) Listed or Certified. In many jurisdictions in the USA there are residential building codes that require all hardwired/permanent installed electrical equipment, such as circuit breaker panels and transfer switches, to be UL Listed/Certified. If a fire or other damage results from violation of this code requirement, insurance coverage may deny the claim and not pay/reimburse repair costs.
Thanks for the heads-up! I didn’t know.
I reached out to bluetti and they replied stating it does have UL certification
Have you figured out the solution yet?
After you hook up the Fusion Box (as you’ve done in write-up and photos) you then have to change the settings in the AC300s. From the main menu go to “Machine Type” and then you have the option to set the unit to “Split Phase.” It will then ask you to assign the unit to “Master” or “Slave.” You set one to Master and the other to Slave. Once you’ve changed your settings the Fusion Box should work (according to the manual). I’m still waiting on my Fusion Box but I will try it as soon as it comes in (shipping in late March 2022).
Please keep in mind that before you plug into the Fusion Box or program the units to Split Phase, you should unplug the AC300’s from the wall outlets!!! Once the units are in Split Phase you can only charge AC wall power via a custom made L14-30 cable (diagram is in the user manual on pg. 34). However, there are no restrictions on DC charging (like solar panels).
The split phase only works when both AC300 outputs are at opposite phase points (180 degrees ), so when one unit us at the positive phase (assume it is pushing) the other unit is at the negative phase (or pulling). The sum is 240 VAC. As they are alternating the phase (emulating the rotary utility generator), they change position 60 times per second. The "Master " unit controls the “Slave” unit to keep the phases in opposition.
As for AC charging, the AC300 inputs must be connected to the different phases of the utility input. You can assign the “Master” to L1 and the “Slave” to L2.
Yes, this is what is depicted in the diagram on page 34 of the AC300 User Manual. The problem is Bluetti is not selling the “Fusion AC Input Cable” shown in the diagram which necessary for AC charging when in Split Phase mode (as you’ve described). I’m going to email Bluetti and see if they have any plans on selling this cable. Otherwise, we’re stuck with installing the Smart Home Panel (which is configured for AC charging in Split Phase mode) or hacking two AC300 30A Charging Cables (L14-30 male plug to AC input plug for AC300: AC300 30A AC CHARGING CABLE – Bluettipower-US) so you have the “Master” AC300 on L1 of the plug and the “Slave” on L2.
It just seems to me the Smart Home Panel is overpriced, and it’s not UL certified. Since I’ll need an electrician to help me out I figure I can buy a less expensive sub panel with a L14-30 plug, but I would still need the “Fusion AC Input Cable” or build one myself.
I stand corrected! Thank you for this information.
Hi!
Bluetti told me they wud replace my AC300 if I sent them a video of problem. So I made two videos for them. Here they are so u can see the problem.
Check it out!
Helen
Where do you get the TT30P-TT30R dogbones? I went to the Bluetti website, but they don’t list them.
Maybe you just have to email them?
That is what I want to do. I don’t need 240v, but I would like to have the 6000 watt output rather than the 3000 watt.
When you do this is one a master & one a slave?
The master than connects to the transfer box & the other one does not?
I would guess than if that is so, that all 6000 watt output goes out of the master unit?
Having 4 batteries on each of the AC300 units, would than all 24000 watts storage go through the main unit?
I am unfamiliar with the hooking up of the two units & the benefits of doing this connection.
Thanks, any knowledge help would be appreciated.
jeff
The dog bones I bought were from Amazon not bluetti.
In regards to 6000 watts in split phase mode. The output of the 6000 watts go out on the 4prong outlet of the fusion box. It actually provides 3000 watts per side of each of the live L1 and L2 of the 4 prong L14-30r on fusion box outlet. The L1 and L2 combined gives you the split phase to provide 240v. If you don’t need 240v then the L1 and L2 can give you 3000watts each at 120v. Most likely connected on a transfer switch that has split phase L1 and L2 bus bars
Thank you.
My main goal is to run my fridge (110v) & well pump (which is 240v) & the furnace, which is also 240v
In the summer, I would just be running my fridge & well pump
In the winter, I would be adding the furnace which is a gas furnace.
I am hoping that the two AC300’s would do that.
I see that the two AC300’s plug into the fusion box. I am guessing then that the fusion box plugs into the transfer box?
I don’t have that box yet, so looking at the photos, the two attached cords go to the AC300 units.
The top female plug, ( that goes to the transfer box?)
What do the two RV plugs do on the fusion box?
thanks
Be sure to read the community post on transfer switches which will offer you important information. Especially selecting a switch that also switches the neutral.
The 2 tt30r outlets on the fusion box gives you a way to provide 3000 watt/30a output in case you don’t use the L14-30 outlet. Sort of like pass through each of the tt30r from the ac300s.
Thanks William:
I have been watching some of your videos. Good info, thanks for sharing.
As I watched your split phase video, at the end you talked briefly about transfer boxes.
As I listened, I thought, crap, I already bought a Connecticut-Electric 6-7501, 30 amp/7500 watt transfer box.
I have not hooked anything up yet.
To note:
I will only be charging my AC300’s with Solar.
Will not be charging them from the Grid.
Also, I will not have it plugged into the grid for charging while the units are powering my house from solar & battery storage.
Solar only.
If I run out of battery because of several days of rain or etc.
I will just switch over to the grid, unplug the 300 & wait for sun & run the house from the power company.
I did check out the Generac, you mentioned. On Amazon, it has 8 circuits
Here is a link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V4NDFZO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3FYZ7JNIA3FOK&psc=1
Amazon.com: Generac 6852 Home Link Upgradeable Transfer Switch Kit, 30 Amp : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com: Generac 6852 Home Link Upgradeable Transfer Switch Kit, 30 Amp : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
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I could not find any “X” series Reliance transfer boxes.
Just the original I believe.
The one I am looking at is the 30310A Pro/Tran 10 circuit 30 amp
Here is a link:
Amazon.com: Reliance Controls 30310A Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30-Amp Indoor Generator Transfer Switch : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com: Reliance Controls 30310A Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30-Amp Indoor Generator Transfer Switch : Patio, Lawn & Garden
www.amazon.com
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If you have a link to reliance “X” series boxes, let me know.
Looks like on the Generac one above, I would need to buy an input box, but they are on amazon also at $50
I will look at the community posts on transfer boxes
thanks
Jeff Thornton
Yeah I may have a video or 2 out there but I think the video with the info you are referring to are from Twister36, David. He has conducted much split phase and Generac transfer switch testing and working with support on a new firmware.
I am the one with the protran2 transfer switch that does not switch the neutral.
There are quite a few users contributing and sharing their experiences here.
my writeup on testing and experience and description on the various ac300 ups modes/settings may also be helpful for you.
Thank You William,
I will be checking it out soon!
| t4602yf
July 11 |
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| Yeah I may have a video or 2 out there but I think the video with the info you are referring to are from Twister36, David. He has conducted much split phase and Generac transfer switch testing and working with support on a new firmware.
I am the the with the protran2 transfer switch that does not switch the neutral.
There are quite a few users contributing and sharing their experiences here.
my writeup on testing and experience and description on the various ac300 ups modes/settings may also be helpful for you.