is there any harm done by leaving this mode as default, if used very rarely (kettle–625w)?
Hi @mkbgdns ,
If you use every time is loaded with 600W ~ 1200W pure resistive load, set this mode as the default mode is no problem, will not cause damage to the machine.
thanks for the info. let me clarify–I will very rarely impose load greater than 600w, never above 650w. my question was really, with power lifting mode as default, does extended use (years?) well within normal limit, cause greater stress/wear on machine than leaving “normal” as default? sorry for not being clear. the subtext here is that I don’t have a smart phone, and re-setting default mode involves another, smart-phone-owning person.
Hi @mkbgdns ,
Please do not worry. This is a normal use situation, there will be no more stress or wear on the machine. Please feel free to use it.
Keep in mind, when using power lift, the sine wave is a bit distorted.
Okay for heating elements but I wouldn’t use it on motors or sensitive electronics. Leaving it on default, you may one day forget to reverse the setting and cause damage to items that can be harm by distorted sine wave.
FYI: You will not have the pure sine wave in power lifting mode. This applies also to other brands.
1 Like
you’ve addressed my precise question, imprecisely posed. so, using my laptop at 20w, my eb3a will be putting out a distorted current in pw mode?
Only when you get close to 600w output does it start distorting the sine wave and lower the voltage output.
thank you for the clarification
True. That the way it work. As long as ur not running other things that may result in distorted sine wave at the same time using sensitive electronic.
Murphy law indicates it can happen too often.
1 Like
Thank you aly!
Do you know of any reference information that can help us understand the effects of Power lifting on sensitive electronic devices? Any Oscilloscope graphs of the output under different output loads?
I am very concerned that using a Bluetti power station to replace my APC Smart UPS might actually damage devices like ‘smart appliances’ and many ‘computer controlled’ devices that are now becoming prevalent in recently built homes … e.g. forced air furnaces and residential boilers.
I would like to more fully understand the implications before making a purchase decision.
Hi, am new to this site and rather ignorant so just want to confirm something. Please bear with me. Briefly, we are in deep trouble in South Africa after years of government corruption, Currently and going into winter we have a thing called loadshedding. Suburbs in cities and whole small towns are without power, rotating from place to place, for up to 16 hours in a 32 hour cycle so no electricity for stretches from 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 hours at a time. I recently bought three EB3A series for family. They are marvellous and we can happily use computers, laptops, internet and lamps while otherwise in the dark. We recharge from grid, when on, otherwise solar, on a daily basis .Problem is with fridge defrosting. Fine if 2 hours but with two 4 hour periods it is a problem. I tried the EB3A on an upright fridge/freezer and was fine until the motor went went on and it cut out (I saw it go immediately to about 680 watt before cut out). I then discovered power lifting on the app and it works, starting normally then running normally at up to 130 watt.
I am now thinking about buying another EB3A (all my budget allows) specifically for our fridge freezer and want to confirm if it can be set permanently on lower lifting if used daily or every second day. We are looking at another 2 years (at least) of loadshedding, very depressing. If anyone can reassure me before I buy I would be very grateful! Thank you.
1 Like
Fridge uses a compressor which is not a purely resistive load, so I won’t necessary recommend power lifting for it. If it is say 600-700W it is probably Ok, but not too much more than that.
The EB3A is very portable and good to power small electronics, but if your home have to off grid for hours at a time, then a larger more capable unit with more solar input such as the AC200Max/AC300 would serve you much better. You will be able to power the fridge and a few other loads without issue (2000-3000w of output) and potentially have 1500-2400W of solar input, allowing you to run most stuff short without issues form sun up to sun down.
1 Like
Thank you, much appreciated. Not having any insight and looking into it further I see that startup requires 1500+ watt so I don’t think another EB3A is appropriate, especially for likely 2 years. I will now look at the AC200, having had such good experience with the EB3A for the small stuff. Best wishes.
1 Like