DC Output 12V / 25A Cable / Distribution Box

I Rrecently purchased an AC200P.

I would like to utilize the DC Output port (I believe it’s a female aviation plug) … wondering what other people have fabricated for this cable and distribution box for an RV or small cabin?

Looking for ideas, photos or links to people that have already done this. So I can haul the AC200P into the cabin, plug it in and then items such as a small fridge and fans and lights are ready.

Thanks for any ideas or assistance,


easiest way is to fabricate an aviation cable using 12 ga. wire and connect one end to your fuse box with ring terminals and the other end to your AC200P aviation 12 VDC output. You could also put an XT90 or similar connector set close to the fuse box for a quick disconnect if desired.

Scott that is valuable information, thanks so much.

12 ga wire was an unknown and having that with a XT90 quick connect from the DC fuse box makes perfect sense.

Ok Scott,

Ordered 1m of black / 1m of red 12 ga wire, with a box of assorted ring terminals and shrink wrap with the Weipu SA20 - 2 pin … got lots of XT90s around.

So will send a photo once completed.

The 12 ga wire size soldering into the aviation connection terminals is a tight fit but does work with patience.

I have an AC200P for my van and use the 12V 25A accessory cable (from Bluetti), extended with XT90 and 10 gauge wire to a fuse box and the van chassis ground. Also have an A-B switch to use either the van battery and the AC200P.

I run a fridge, galley water pump, Espar heater, two ceiling fans, LED ceiling lights, and some 12v/USB outlets.

The Espar heater has a glow-plug that pulls about 10A for 3 minutes when it’s starting and ending a heating cycle (spec’ed at 42W operating, <100W starting). The ceiling fans are spec’ed at 5A max (motor opening the vent and fan on high speed), but pull less than an amp at low speed settings. The fridge pulls 3-4 amps (around 30-50W) when running. The water pump and lights around 1 amp each. I could intentionally exceed the 25A, but but easy to avoid by not turning on both fans when the fridge is running and the heater is starting.

The only issue is that the ceiling LED lights will flicker when the heater glow-plug is cycling, and the lights in the back (longest wiring) will turn themselves off. This happens with all other loads turned off, the heater glow-plug affects the lights. I haven’t bothered to troubleshoot, suspect it may be a combination of the long wiring (including the ground) and multiple connections, but certainly the heater glow-plug is causing a voltage drop to the LED lights. I also don’t know if the heater glow-plug is pulling a constant load, or if it pulls a pulsed load that affects the AC200P’s ability to regulate the 12v output.

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I did solder 10 AWG stranded wire to a Weipu SP29 aviation connector for my AC300 power station. I needed to use my Weller soldering gun on high.

Measure the amperage flowing and the output voltage when the glow plug is cycling. If the drop is high, the AC200 is near its power limit. Be careful here not to over power the AC200.