Fair enough, lol. Here’s a little more Aussie humour…
Some Americans, may think Australia is behind the times, or even backward, but I can prove that we are in front of the U.S. all of the time.
When it’s 0930 in the morning where I am, it’s 2000 (8pm) in New York.
But, the day before !!! We’re always in front , lol. 
Re the fridge, my home inverter fridge works perfectly off the AC70, AC180, AC200P. I haven’t checked it with the Elite 100 yet, sound like another test, back in 5.
@BLUETTI @sealy1986 Well, that’s a surprise. From the AC180 it draws approx 133W and works fine.
Connected the E1V2, it started clicking like a relay on/off about 5 times and settled at 76W. I turned it off real quick.
For the time being, I would call that a fail. I’m not game to use a 520lt fridge as a “Guinea Pig”.
Re grid outage backup, I will, for now, not be using the Elite 100 V2 on the house circuits. I’ll tag Bluetti Admin to get this post to refer it up to Tech Support. Perhaps you do the same with your Dehumidifier issue.
Update to this post
Following a DSP update, I retested my home fridge from the E1v2. It now works as it should and provides similar Watts to my other power stations and the Grid. For further information re these DSP updates and the issues resolved check this link; Review Part 2
Given that I have a 90lt Fridge that won’t work on any of my power stations, but will from grid power and now my caravan Air Con and house fridge not working from the E1V2, plus your issues. Something has changed in inverter output.
I have Victron and Projecta inverters, plus 2 PSW inverter generators, that have absolutely no issue running anything I have tried within their output limits, so what’s changed?
When the display shows 76W, is the refrigerator still working normally?
I immediately reconnected it to the grid, with my power meter inline, it’s Watt meter showed 123W, almost double.
As it is an inverter fridge, I don’t know enough about the electronics to know if a. it would work properly, or b. cause damage with a low voltage at almost half that of grid supply.
That coupled with the clicking sound from the Elite 100, I decided to not pursue any further testing.
Earlier today, I connected both an AC180 and the Elite 100 to my caravan Air Conditioner. It’s compressor sounded like it was about to throw a bearing with the “knocking”. It too was very quickly turned off. The A/C is rated at 950W max when on cooling and has a soft start at up to 3 minutes.
Noted, is the clicking sound coming from the EL100 or the fridge?
Also, could you share the SN and DSP versions?
To add to the above: Around 15 minutes ago, the fridge was drawing 137W from the grid, I believe this is when it is in defrost mode as when I placed my ear to the cabinet, the sound was similar to quietly running water.
I just checked again and the load is 97W, by ear again, it sounded like the compressor running. Which means I didn’t damage it.
The compressor is so quiet, that standing next to it, it is almost impossible to detect any noise.
The clicking sound was from the Elite 100. I’ll PM you the SN DSP versions.
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Doing an update, will PM soon 
Edit, PM sent
Thanks for such a detailed review with practical tests.
I have been considering the Elite100v2 as a replacement for an older PS72 or EB70. I use these to run my AC domestic fridge and would like to extend the run time.
Thanks for detailing the issues you experienced trying to run air con and fridges. I saw Hobotech’s review where there were also issues trying to start up air con even though it was within the specs of the Elite 100. The appliances with issues seem to be those with compressors. As starting and running my fridge’s compressor would be the Elite100’s main task I am a bit concerned about potential issues with the Elite100 being able to do this.
I would be interested to know what might cause such an issue? Also, whether it is one that Bluetti can solve with an update.
Right lol. You think that’s whacky, look up Big Diomede vs Little Diomede Islands. They are islands that border Alaska/Russia just 5km apart. Currently Saturday July 5th, 4:13AM on Russian side. Currently Friday, July 4th, 8:13AM on U.S side. The reason why its 21 hour difference is they are on opposite ends of the International Date Line. On the Russian side they call Big Diomede “Tomorrow Island” and on U.S side Little Diomede “Yesterday Island”. I feel sorry for the poor sucker who asks for a day off work, heads into Russia for a bit and comes back and the boss says “Alright buddy back to work!” 
Update on the fridge issue - I am in PM contact with @BLUETTI.
- I detailed the problem.
- Their Tech Team, pushed a DSP update to me.
- On opening the App, the E1V2 also required an IOT update.
- The IOT was updated first, the the DSP update.
- I retested the fridge as follows;
a. With my power meter inline from the grid only.
b. From my AC180 - noting the display Watts and with my power meter plugged into the AC outlet of the AC180 to compare what the power station display Watts were and the actual Watts the fridge was drawing.
c. The same setup as item 2. but with E1v2.
I waited until my fridge cycle started for each test, so it took a little time to do. At start up it hovered at around 47W for a minute or so, then increased to the 100W mark in around 10 seconds. This is the inverter fridge soft start.
The results;
(PWMTR = Power Meter - U/DIS = Power Station Display.)
The power meter value is what the fridge is drawing in power and is similar in value in all 3 connections. At 47W = 2W range, at 100W = 5W range.
The anomaly is the E1V2’s displayed value, it’s high and I’ve FWD this to Bluetti. (Awaiting response) Whereas, the AC180 showed a difference of 3 to 4W.
The Good - The fridge is working perfectly in all instances, so the update appears to work. No feedback yet on if this fixes the A/C issue. Weather does not allow me to try another test, yet and I would like guidance from the Tech Guys first.
The Good
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will it run the dehumidifier with the same updates MandP was sent?
Quite a thorough review, minus solar but understandable given it is winter there. You are the Scott Benson of Oz.
I am waiting on my units, but have a few observations:
Bluetti missed an opportunity to make the charge rate more selectable. 600W is higher than I like to charge via AC. Various competitors allow a much wider range of charge rate.
I avoid using turbo boost or whatever they call it, for any sensitive electronics, things with screens, and inductive loads. Actually, I avoid it altogether.
I believe the idea for the DC outputs was to make it so one of the 5521s could output 8A, so you could use a 5521 to fridge cable instead of using the cig port to fridge, which some people find less secure. Of course, then you cannot use the cig port at the same time. I am glad to see they put the 5521s back after abandoning them. I find them very useful for fridge but also for modem or any other wall wart with a barrel plug.
I am anxiously awaiting my units so I can try them out with my new 400W OptiSolex solar blankets. They are N-type 16BB, and with the E1V2 solar input parameters, I can wire two in parallel.
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Thanks for the comments. Yes, I am disappointed in the Silent and Standard charge being the same. I’m a couple of days away from going remote camping. I’ve checked where and what I can carry for this trip and in consideration of weather. Solar will play a large part of my RV charging and may not be enough, given the weather. So, probably nothing to spare for the power stations. The only option is to carry a petrol generator, for backup.
I’m down to carrying the Elite 100 v2 and one of my AC70s. The 70 will be in the 4x4 for Starlink and small appliances. The E1v2 in the RV primarily for the microwave. It will be a very tight squeeze re weight and space to carry my 100Ah LFP, so the Charger 1 is a redundancy for now, as it’s not installed. Even if it were, if camped without driving, idling a Turbo Diesel 4x4 is not a good thing to do. I don’t have time to do a full GVM/ATM weigh and don’t want to travel overweight, which is illegal here, with insurance voided.
I can charge the AC70 from the 4x4’s 375W Victron inverter, but not the E1v2. The Elite is also pushing the limit on the Generator. Worst case is to charge the E1v2 from the AC70, then use the genny or Victron to charge it.
The other thing I considered was, how to secure the power stations and if taken the battery. There’s only so much space and tie down points, not always available. The 2 Bluettis will be in the front seat floor pan, back to back, with a soft spacer and tied to the seat mounts with straps.
If the E1v2 had the same Silent mode 300W limit as the AC70 & AC180, it would a total winner for me… but, can’t have it all sometimes, lol. I’m not sure if a firmware update will address this, might ask when I return.
I was hoping to take the Elite + AC70 + AC180 + 100Ah LFP + Charger 1 and an AC multi stage charger. With cables, that’s a lot to carry, when I need food, drink etc and the “kitchen sink”, lol. I don’t even have space for my 2 x 120W solar blankets in the 4by. The 2 x 150 solar mats are always in the caravan.
The RV has 2 x 20lt water jerries for spare H2O. A 3rd was going in the rear of the 4x4. That’s also staying home due to no space.
Is the Elite 100 V2 display factoring in conversion losses from internal battery to AC power + inverter losses? This would make sense because at around 100W load on an 1800W inverter you would expect around 60-70% conversion, plus 10-15% loss from the battery. 1.5 times more than 100W is 150 watts, assuming 15% is lost converting the battery from DC to AC and the inverter only 65% efficient at 100W (35+15=50% or 1.5x)
I have always factored an inverter at 10%. To explain, this is using the tried and tested 12VDC to 240VAC inverter.
i.e. if the load is 2,400W AC the current is 10A AC. Then divide that wattage by 10 (Not the 12V of the battery) = 240A from the DC source. This then takes care of the efficiency losses, which for a good quality 12V inverter is OK.
I had a 300W - 12V RV inverter installed many years ago and it showed a battery load of 29A at almost full load, which qualifies this assumption.
The point I was making in my testing results is; Compared to the AC180, which has the same size inverter as the E1v2 and with the same load tested on both, the E1v2’s displayed watts were higher than the displayed watts on the AC180. This raises the Question - Why? I should note this was on one device, my home fridge. Other tests like the “big” TV, were very similar from both the E1v2 and AC180, with the Elite being only slightly higher, in the order of <2% at a similar wattage to the fridge. The 400W strip heater, a 4 x higher load, showed a similar, but very small difference.
I have not yet had the opportunity to do this; On return from my trip, I am going to test both the AC180 and the Elite 100 v2 on the home fridge. Both fully charged and run until the capacity shows 5%. (I don’t want to run flat, because the effect upon an inverter compressor is unknown).
The run time, known capacity, plus the power meter displayed Wh, should give a comparison sufficient compare efficiency between the 2 inverters.
I also accept that the inverter loss from a power station, might be at 15% due to the same losses, as above, and the added internal management loads, that a “dumb” inverter does not require.
The 10% part of Bluetti’s capacity calculation is not inverter related, it is a cap on usable capacity, so the battery is not totally depleted even though the display shows 0%.
After return from my trip, I intend to test the AC180 & the Elite 100 v2 on the house fridge, to compare efficiency.
Both start at 100%, but discharged to 5% capacity. I do not know if there is a detrimental effect on an inverter compressor at the point of 0% shut down.