I am interested in the Charger 1. I have a few questions.
Tow vehicle 2023 Toyota Tacoma with 130-amp alternator.
Anything that I should be concerned with the 130-amp alternator?
All videos show the power station is several feet from the Charger 1. My situation makes it more difficult to move the AC200L. I would like to run wiring from the Charger 1 to the RV per my picture.
Any thoughts?
The picture shows two pink ovals. I am thinking there should be two breakers in these areas.
Any thoughts?
How many amp breakers?
I can’t answer Q1 as I don’t know what your other loads are and how much your alternator has to spare.
That said, the input cable is 6AWG an it’s breaker is near the C1. This is not ideal in my opinion as the source breaker should be as close to the source power (start battery) as possible. The breaker, or if used, midi fuse should be 60A, which is what the C1 is rated for.
Your cable from start battery, should terminate at the rear bumper with a 120A Anderson plug SB120 (a 50A is not big enough if max power is used).
You then need to use 6AWG from a mating Anderson on the trailer draw bar to the C1. If the input is CCTBRKR or fused at the start battery, you don’t need another breaker on the input.
Position the c1 as close to the AC200L as possible, use the output cable supplied with MC4 connectors and then to the AC200L Solar input cable. You shouldn’t need to fuse this side if wired properly.
Due to charging my RV house batteries and an Auxiliary in the 4x4 @ 20A , I don’t have enough alternator spare to charge my AC180 in Standard mode at the full 560w output of the C1, so I dial it back to around 35V for 350W and charge in Silent mode.
Just because the C1 will output 560W max, doesn’t mean you need to use that amount. It may be trial and error or you need to connect an OBD2 gauge to check what your alternator is doing. Worst case is Aircon on, headlights and anything else powered in normal use.
Agreed about placing a breaker or fuse as close as possible to the battery, ideally mounted directly on the positive terminal of the battery.
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Additionally, I would install a breaker on the output side of the Charger 1, especially since it will be powering a separate circuit or device. This ensures both input and output lines are protected independently.
This is because the primary role of a fuse or breaker is to protect the wiring, not the devices. That’s why protection is typically placed at the source end of each power line, where the current originates.
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Regarding the physical placement of the Charger 1, I would install it as close to the source battery as possible to minimizes voltage drop on the input side, which is especially important at lower voltages due to higher current draw. Since the Charger 1 is a boost converter (which steps up voltage), it’s more efficient to run longer cables on the higher-voltage output side, where the current is lower, thus reducing energy losses and cable heating.
FrankG - interested to know if you went ahead with this and if so, did you keep the C1 in the tub with the power station in the van or did you put the C1 in the van closer to the power station. I am looking at a similar setup and interested in your experience - Captain
Hello Mandp, are you able to explain to me why the C1 needs to be as close to power station as possible?
I have a Ranger/Caravan setup and I am looking at having my AC180 in the Ranger (canopy/tub) and my Elite 200 in the van.
Would then be looking at having the C1 to ‘charge’ them both however acknowledging I would only be charging one at a time by switching between the two.
If I fixed the C1 in the Ranger canopy it would be close to the AC180 (therefore no problem) however would be some distance from the Elite 200 in the van when switching to charge same.
Would you see that as an issue, which brings me back to my initial question, why does the C1 need to be close to the power station?
This advice applies to pretty well all Chargers, be they VAC, DC-DC, Solar Controllers etc.
Why? - The output voltage and current are calibrated to provide optimum input to a battery. The cables are often at the maximum a terminal can accept i.e. smaller Victron solar controllers are especially like this. I have a 75/15 Bluesmart and it is limited to 6mm sq or 10AWG maximum wiring.
Putting something like a 5M (15’) cable run at 10AWG would give almost 7% voltage drop at a 14V - 15A charge on the output. This means a low charging voltage at the battery.
In terms of the Charger 1, the output cable is 12AWG at 56V and 10A (full output) a 5M run would suffer approx 2V drop.
Keep in mind that the output of the Charger 1 is fixed at 10A, so the lower the voltage that is set in the above example, the higher the % of V drop will be.
However, the Charger 1 is not actually a Charger, it is a variable voltage, fixed current power converter. The actual battery charging is done by the internal DC charger of your AC180 or Elite 200. All voltage drop will do is lower the expected input W, the longer the run the higher the drop. It will still work.
The other point is that the Charger 1 has a limit to the cable size at output. As I use the OEM cable and have not tried other cable sizes, you need to check what its limit is. Then calculate voltage drop over your length and expected output. The accepted acceptable drop is <3%, but all this will do if higher is marginally reduce charge.
If you do this, don’t forget to put an inline Midi fuse of 60A near the Charger 1 output, to protect the cable between your Ranger and Caravan.
@Captain1 - Doug, there are plenty of voltage drop calculators online, use Mr. Google, lol.
Be aware, voltage drop is normally calculated along the entire run length. To explain - a 5M twin core cable (+/-) is a total run of 10M, 5 for the positive and 5 for the negative.
Some calculators differ at their data input, i.e. total length of run (10M) or length of twin core cable (5M). Make sure you note which.
Mike
Thanks for that Mike - I actually watched a couple of videos on voltage drop this morning and they pointed out the online calculators however I didn’t pick up (doubt it was mentioned) re the combined wire length - haven’t gone to any calculators yet though.
We have lived on the road for years and I am always looking for better free camping power solutions, that said, all in all, I think I can live with the voltage drop to give me the end outcome here.
Doug, if it helps, my logic is flexibility in using multiple options. To explain;
Yes I have solar, albeit not enough, but the sun does not always shine!
Yes I have DC-DC chargers and the Charger 1, but I don’t always drive!
Yes I have a small petrol generator, but only carry a small amount of fuel and in some camps use is banned!
I’ve don’t remember ever having a flat battery, other than on one occasion and that cost me a new battery. I had a 100Ah AGM in the rear of the 4x4 powering my Engel fridge and a Travel Buddy 12V oven. I had used the oven and the timer switch had not quite reached the off position. I physically turned it anti clockwise, but a little too far . In this position it was permanently on and I failed to notice. Later that day, I went to get a cold beer from the Engel, it wasn’t cold. On checking the battery, it was at around 2V and “stuffed”. Expensive user mistake, lol.
Well Mike, thats a little spooky. I have AGM in the ranger with a DCDC charger and a 200w solar panel on top to run my weaco fridge and, at times, a small 12v oven in the canopy.
Van has 2 @ 120 lithium batteries (with no inverter) to run all the 12v van stuff and charged by 2 x 200w solar panels. Now have 2 × bluetti’s for 240v luxuries charged by 2 separate 200w solar panels and the charger1 will be the top up whilst traveling.
Like you, also carry a (honda) generator which is a back up and gets only the occasional run.
Apologies for late reply, just saw your last comment.
