Are the EB series discontinued?

Hello there.Was trying to get info on re stock on the eb 150 180 and 240 models for 1 month here and on the bluettin ebay page. All the info I get is one lazy message with little to no sense!

Just want to know if the 3 bluetti models I mentioned are going to be back in stock or they are discontinued products( and if discontinued, why/defective) ? I know the main company is in Germany so I asked them many times if there is possibly parts shortage due to the conflict with Russia but 0 answer…
If this is the level of communication with this company Im not sure what to even expect if I actually make a purchase.

I believe they are 4 years old and have been superseded by models with newer/better technology. Albeit I have an EB150 because it offers amazing $ per Wh value. The MPPT controller is definitely not as smart as the newer ones though and I have to manually unplug and replug the solar input cable for the hunting algorithm to find the maximum power point.

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Thank you for stopping by mate. Is the eb 150 180 240 line still worth it? I like their prices more than the current products bluetti offers.Is their quality good to invest in these days or do they tend to be defective?
The new ac200 max look cool, but i just don’t get that price knowing that for that money I can probably negotiate 2x eb180.

I’m running my second AC discharge performance test (no input connected) on my a used EB150 I picked up on Ebay for $740. First test resulted in 950Wh usable power at around 48W output for a runtime of around 19.5 hours. The second test I’m running now is using a ~150W load, so I’m expecting between 6-7 hours of runtime.

If you get a good deal on the EB150, 180 or 240 (i.e. under $0.50 cents per Watt-hour) then it might still be a good investment. I can’t comment on reliability as I’ve had mine for less than a week. What is better about these is that the inverter is more efficient at lower loads than the AC200/300 series. A 2000 or 3000W inverter is going to chew up a lot of power while it is running compared to a 600W or 1000W inverter. My use case demands a large battery with a modest AC output requirement of under 1000W so these EBs fit the bill more than the newer models.


Thank you for the good explanation. Im kind of new to these things and cant find the full time to investigate it all which is bad from my part.My idea was to purchase (just in case use) probably the eb 150 or 180 + a portable 52 or 60l fridge.From what i read, if you put such fridge on eco mode which is like 32w? The battery can keep the fridge running for possibly 6-7 days?(having in mind that the eco mode of the fridge probably turns on and off each 20 min?).

My idea was to have a long backup for my insulin in case something bad happens as the world is going to…
The idea was probably 2x eb180 and 2x 200w panels .

Probably a lot of errors in my idea.If someone can see where Im going and how to possibly achieve it, It will be of great help .

If you wanted to be precise you could purchase the fridge first and profile it using a Kill-a-watt meter (for AC loads) to understand its load patterns, both instantaneous usage and over time. That should give you a very good idea how long you can run it for a given battery size. The alternative is to find power usage results from other internet citizens who have tested this already for the same product.

The biggest challenge you have to stretch your battery is inverter inefficiency/overhead. To minimize this, in general, you’ll want to use the smallest inverter that can power the largest load (don’t forget about surge load, especially with refrigeration compressors). The thing is that battery capacity for all-in-one power stations typically scale up with inverter capacity, so you might be better served making your own custom system which would allow you to right-size according to your exact requirements. It won’t be as convenient or portable as a Bluetti which has the battery, MPPT controller and AC inverter and DC ports all tucked into a portable enclosure.

Now that I’m re-reading your last reply, your portable fridge will most likely support both DC and AC power. Using DC is more efficient from the battery (which is a DC source) rather than using AC. However, reading some portable fridge reviews shows that DC cooling performance of the fridge might not be good enough. Perhaps someone with more experience can comment on this.

Rather far off the initial topic, and kinda a dumb question - but why would the AC and DC cooling performance of the fridge differ? I honestly have no idea, legit question.

I’m curious too, could’ve been a bad unit - isn’t widely reported as DC underperforming compared to AC. Product: BODEGA 12 Volt Refrigerator Portable Freezer, Car Fridge Dual Zone WIFI APP Control, 64 Quart(60L

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The second AC discharge test on my EB150 is now complete and resulted in 1130Wh usable power at an average of 131W output for a runtime of 8.6 hours - it actually performed better reaching 75% of the rated 1500Wh compared to 63% in the first test, which confirms that the inverter is more efficient at the higher wattage output (~131W vs ~48W).

For the next AC discharge test I’ll increase the load to 300-400W and measure the total energy used, again with a Kill-a-watt.

Hi @O_and_N , We still have the old EB series for sale at Amazon. May I ask what country you live in?

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I am from Spain.Basically the bluetti page on has been quite empty for a long time sadly.
There are a few more things on your ebay page (which I think is from Germany) but the cool stuff is mainly refurbished.

Thanks for your reply. Which specific EB model do you want to purchase? I can help you ask for the relevant salesperson.