I can live with a 20ms delay. It may not keep my TV and computer running but it will keep my fridge and freezer running.
I cant live with the AC output power not being restored automatically.
However I agree, this is not a true UPS.
My testing does not agree with Mike. With my newer AC300 I do not see the AC output go away at all. (can you actually see a 20ms delay? ) This would be testing with it in single phase and not connected to transfer switch. I can actually hear the relays clicking though.
I will try another test tomorrow when my wife is not home. She hates it when the microwave clock blinks
No UPS has a 0ms switching time. It’s literally impossible by the laws of physics
The only way to do that would be to run the system off of battery all the time. I have heard that expensive APC units have a 5ms switching time. My cheaper(ish) units have a 8ms switching time.
I am not sure if 20ms will keep a PC up or not.
But this does not seem to be the issue. The issue that people are describing is the unit not turning the AC back on when utility power comes back online. This has nothing to do with the switching time.
I think the slow switching time is one of the causes of the ac not coming back on when the power is restored. It surges and flips it back off again. I’ve been able to successfully (after the latest firmware) keep the ac on after a power outage, but only if the load is less than 1800watts. Before the firmware, it just kept it off no matter what the load. I’ve been trying to use the password to increase the grid charging amps, but it won’t stay for some reason. Since 1800watts is the 15amps, I thought maybe if I put the charging at 25amps (3kw) it might just keep the ac on (since the grid can fully feed the whole load). Btw, I’m using two ac300s in split phase (AC coming through L14-30r to the two AC300s. Ac1 is the x line and ac2 is the y, with the BLUETTI smart home panel). I’ve tested the phase with an oscilloscope and they are truly phased. If anyone knows how to change the max grid input current, let me know. I can get pass the password (by entering the password) but it won’t let me change the current (I’ve tried unplugging solar and grid charging before trying to change the setting). Thanks
Now support thinks the older AC300 may have a problem and wants me to do an RMA on it.
Will let you know how the next one works when I get it.
Now I will have one AC300 with 2200W input and no where to go .
This is my manual transfer switch as well that I purchased back in Jan 2020 for my gas generator to power the emergency circuits. I just purchased the Bluetti AC300 x 2 package with 4 - B300 (12kw) power packs including 3 - PV 200 Solar panels with the hope to be able to replace my gas generator and use my Bluetti AC300 in split-phase configuration with fusion box to be able to connect directly into the HomeLink Manual Transfer Switch. My hope is that I can utilize my AC300’s to power my emergency circuits when Grid power fails while still receiving PV power from the Solar Panels then when Grid is active I would still like to power all my emergency circuits with the AC300’s and let the Grid still power the remaining circuits - is that even possible with a Manual Transfer Switch?
I sent all my specs and data to my electrician who installed the Generac HomeLink Manual Transfer Switch and asked if I could just piggy back on the circuits in the Manual Transfer Switch with a 50 Amp or 30 Amp receptacle inside my garage so I could use my Solar Generator to power my emergency circuits or use the Solar Generator via a receptacle connected to the Bluetti Smart Home Panel tied into my Manual Transfer Switch when I’m not using the Generator as a power source (but obviously not using them at the same time). He didn’t say no, but my original request that included the Smart Home Panel made him scratch his head was to whether he could just piggy back this Smart Home Panel on top of the emergency circuits, but that he would research it some more. Anyway, after reading this forum and checking out the Dave V YT channel videos, I just updated my request to my electrician to see if I can just use the Generac HomeLink Manual Transfer Switch instead of the Smart Home Panel? Besides it appears the Smart Home Panels are very hard to get right now and I’m not too interested in shelling out another $1500 for yet another panel. Just wondering if you have some detailed schematics on how you accomplished your setup that I can relay onto my electrician?
Your posts are very informative and I look forward to your reply…
Hi TJ - It sounds like your setup is the same as mine. I too have the Generac HomeLink 50amp transfer switch that was originally installed for a gas generator to power critical loads during at grid outage. I assume that you have an 50 amp inlet for your gas generator to connect to and provide power to the transfer switch.
If you have that 50 amp inlet you can simply buy a 30amp to 50amp generator cable and use this cable from the L14-30R outlet on the fusion box and plug it directly into the 50amp inlet. Granted you’ll only be sending 30 amps, but this way you can use your existing setup.
You’ll be able to see my setup on my split-phase setup video:
This is the cable I am using to go from the Fusion to the 50amp inlet:
Thanks so much for the quick response. I guess we might have a slight difference in setup since my inlet is four pronged and not three. So I am thinking that I could just use my existing generator cable and go from the four pronged outlet on the fusion box to my HomeLink inlet that is also four pronged. Except I am not wanting a really long cable to run outside to the inlet box, but rather put another parallel inlet box on the inside wall of my garage near my HomeLink panel - I wonder if having two inlets tied into the same HomeLink panel would work and meet code?
Another question about the HomeLink Panel - Did you have to upgrade your panel to be able to carry the increased wattage from your Bluetti? My gas generator puts out 7500 watts, but my Bluetti setup is near 12,000 watts - does it really matter given it is powering the same emergency circuits?
Is the bonded and floating neutral an issue with using the Bluetti instead of the gas generator?
Finally, is it possible to run the Bluetti via the HomeLink panel powering my emergency circuits while at the same time having the Grid powering the remaining circuits? Didn’t know if the manual transfer switch functionality allows for this.
I think you may be a little confused with your ac300 12kwh purchase. Each battery gives you 3000kwh so 4 is about 12 kWh. Each ac300 gives you 3000 watts inverter output so 2 in split phase mode gives you 6000 total but 3000 in each leg of L1 and L2.
Your gas generator puts out 7500 watts and has higher output than the 2 ac300 6000 watts.
Don’t confuse Higher kWh with higher output wattage. Only a large inverter can give you higher inverter wattage output. More batteries gives you longer run time or kWh.
That’s correct… Your ac300 only deliveries 3000 watts per unit, to each leg. Because you have two legs you only have 6000 working watts… 12,000 watts is your storage.
What do you mean your cable inlet is 4 prong? Are you trying to use a plug to feed your transfer switch? If so that’s called suicide plug for a reason. Can you provide a picture.
Received my new AC300 today.
It seems to be a newer model with a higher serial number (but these things are crazy so who really knows?)
Quick set up and connected as single phase to power and it seemed to work just fine.
Next was the split phase setup.
Set it up with grid power and turned on AC output. Worked fine.
Did the grid off / grid on power test. Still works fine. No errors! YEA!
I did notice the combiner box loss power as relays clicked a few times. Of course this was because AC output was shut off on both units when grid power was restored. This was as expected and discussed prior in this thread.
AC power output was cut for about 2-3 seconds (1.5 eye blinks ) and then enabled on both units.
Just to be sure, I did this test a few times with the same results. (YEA).
I will be keeping an eye on it for a few days and will test it a few more times.
Yes, I am planning on using my current four prong cable connecting the Bluetti Fusion Box to my Generac HomeLink Panel 4 prong inlet to power my emergency circuits through the manual transfer switch. I’ve attached a picture of the inlet.
It should work - correct?
Will I need a bonding plug for my AC300 in this configuration with my HomeLink?
Ok, so you have a 30 amp inlet. Mine is a 50amp with a adapter from 30 to 50.
I can’t answer the bonding plug yet… I’m still working with support on this subject. I actually just sent them a video that I record on this subject today. I’ll have to update you later
) This would be testing with it in single phase and not connected to transfer switch. I can actually hear the relays clicking though.
