I got a couple questions regarding the RV cable to power my fuse block. First I should point out I have the AC200MAX powering the van build.
I received my van back from a couple guys that did the conversion and my 12v remote dimmable LED lights flicker. I’m using the cigarette port to power the fuse block. They suggested the first thing I should do to try to fix the problem is to power the fuse block from the 12V/30A aviation port. I just received the 2 part RV cable and my plan is to ditch the cable with the Anderson connector and replace it with an XT60 pigtail. I will then attempt to solder terminals on the ends which will be wired into the fuse block. So here are my questions,
What gauge XT60 wire would be best? The cable with the Anderson connector that I won’t be using shows 14 AWG but I’m not sure if I should just go with that or if a thicker wire would be better.
Should inline fuses on both the positive and negative wires be used in front of the terminal ends? And if so what amperage should the fuses be?
Has anyone else encountered a problem with lights flickering? I tested the lights on a deep cycle battery with a stable voltage and they don’t flicker. When I test the Voltage on the Bluetti it fluctuates between 13-14 volts. Could the fluctuating voltage be the reason the lights are flickering? Would a voltage regulator being installed fix the problem?
I would at least use a 12AWG wire, which is good for 20A, the largest wire the XT60 connector supports . Preferably, if connecting to the 30A outlet, you should use 10AWG, but then you would need to use a XT90 connector.
If you stick to the 12 AWG wire, an inline fuse on the positive, rated at 20A would be recommended so you never can exceed the capacity of the wiring. If using 10AWG, the Bluetti would current limit the current to 30A so perhaps no fuse needed, depending on what you are feeding.
Fluctuating voltage could be related to a weird interaction between the dimmer and the Bluetti 12V DC regulator. In that case it will not fix the issue by connecting to the 30A receptacle I am afraid. You may have to try with a different dimmer model if you still have issues.
Thanks for the info. So it doesn’t make sense to me to not utilize the full 30 Amps. The cable with the aviation plug on one end and XT60 on the other does not show what the wire gauge is, but the second cable that plugs in the XT 60 with the Anderson connector says 14 AWG. Should I assume the cable with the aviation plug is 14 gauge? And why would bluetti supply such a low amp cable for a 30 amp port? Sorry for the ingnorance, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around all this stuff
I took a look on Amazon and found 10 AWG XT60 connectors. Am I missing something?
If you purchased the 30A RV cable, it should be 10AWG or it will get very hot if you pull 30A. As for the XT60 connector with 10AWG, that is great and will work. I stay corrected on my previous statement. Have not looked a lot for the XT60 (I am using XT90 for all my connections), and the XT60 (non-Bluetti) I have is 12AWG.
I did get the RV cable that’s for the AC200max which has the 12v/30A aviation port. It’s a 2 part cable but doesn’t make sense to me the second cable with the Anderson connector is labeled 14 AWG so it confuses me. I don’t know to much about this stuff and just trying not to fry anything haha Thanks again for the feedback
Hey question about the flickering light problem I’m having. Do you know if how the lights are wired make a difference? I have them in parallel but should they have been in series or does that even matter?
I do not think it matters much from a flicker point of view. Parallel sounds the right way to go if they are rated for full voltage. If you put them in series they will be dimmer as they would split the voltage in half. That could actually make them even more sensitive to flicker.