Got an AC200 Max. Charged it to full - 100%.
Connected an empty Dometic CFX 35 fridge on 12V DC. AC is off.
After 19 hours SOC is 75% !!! This roughly translates to 650Wh every 24hrs !!!
This fridge I measured on a Victron system and typically it draws 250Wh every 24hrs. You also can find on Youtube lots of videos with the consumption of this fridge. For example a Jackery 1000 was measured by to power this fridge for 96hrs and someone else even obtained 123 hrs. So this is consistent with my measurements.
Is the DC power circuit overhead on AC200 MAX so huge? Has anybody measured how much it takes for the AC200 MAX to be completely depleted if you leave DC on but do not have anything connected so no power draw.
I believe the bluetti response is consistent w/ various customer experiences. I guess my question would be why have DC on w/o a load? I just turned my AC200P on and its still at 100% SoC. I do not have AC or DC turned on unless I need them. This issue gets raised periodically and I wonder if I’m missing the point, there might be a reason I haven’t considered so I’m curious why people might want to leave their MAX or 200p with AC or DC on w/o a load.
I think you missed the point. I don’t plan to use it with no load on DC. That was not the reasoning behind my question.
The problem is that if it is correct that this unit has DC overhead of 11w, which btw is HUGE, than it becomes hilariously highly inefficient to run small loads on DC for longer periods of time. For example 12V fridge in an overlanding scenario, which is the reason I bought this unit.
For example a Jackery 1000Wh will power the Dometic fridge for the same amount of time than a 2000Wh AC200 MAX and for half the price. A little bit comical. Yeah I know probably the 12V output of the Jackery is not regulated, but still, the DC overhead of the Bluetti is too much.
Were you running the Max in ECO mode? I dont have a Max (although like the changes they made). I have AC200P. Is that 11% draw down wfhile running in ECO mode?
What was the ambient temperature for the fridge? Did you prechill the Dometic? There are a lot of variables for those YT tests. I’m waiting for my IceCo JP50 Pro (indiegogo) to arrive, and I also want to power it through the AC200Max’s DC ports. OOA is a great site, btw.
It simply doesn’t matter. If DC overhead is 11w this means every four days you are throwing out the window 1000Wh just to keep the battery on, regardless of how you are using the fridge. In four days you will empty the AC200 MAX (1000Wh self consumption + 1000Wh fridge) So for the scenario where you are using small loads on DC for longer periods of time the AC200 MAX is completely inefficient.
Do you have a solar panel? That’s the idea behind this device, especially overlanding. One 200 watt solar panel would probably run your fridge and keep the battery fully charged too.
Well, all devices of this type rely on solar… so obviously I have a solar panel.
But why buy an AC 200 MAX when instead you can use a Jackery 1000 and have the exact same autonomy in case of cloudy days. For half the price. The Jackery has extremely low overhead on DC making it suitable for powering small loads on DC for days.
The Jackery 1000 is a good unit but it’s about half the power of an AC200Max.
Your claim that it can do the same thing as the Max is false.
A stonger comparison would be the EB70s, which is a smaller inverter thusly requiring less power to run…and potentially the step down from the internal operating voltage to 12v has less loss as well. If you’re simply running a 12 fridge, you’re better off with a smaller unit, if you require full 2000watt AC inverter the Jackery wouldn’t do it…at least that one.
When I see someone explaining to me I need a smaller inverter while I talk about a DC powered fridge I usually stop the discussion. Sorry mate, you seem a nice guy, and the solution to overpanel to bypass bad engineering blew my mind.
Simple fact is Bluetti should have considered a separate circuit for 12V 10A, thus eliminating most of the overhead when running continuously a fridge. Some other manufacturers have done this and it is called clever engineering.
Evidently you haven’t checked out because you’re still replying. Overpanel? What? If indeed the BMS is 11 watts, that’s 88 watts all day, that’s like an hour on a shady day. I have an idea, engineer your own system and sell that…or just build your own with native 12v batteries, you might be happier that way.
As a test when I bought my setpower dual zone 60 quart 12v fridge/freezer I tested the AC200Max. I ran the fridge with one side at 0 degrees f and the other at 37 degrees f, ran for about 3-4 days until the unit shut off. I recharged the battery and ran both sides (one big fridge) at 37 f for 6 days.
I do have the insulated cover for the fridge and the ambient average temperature was 77 degrees. I’m very happy with that performance. I could run the device as a full freezer indefinitely with a single PV200 panel.
I’m sure you could return the Bluetti if you wanted.
11W continuous does not mean 88W all day, never. It means roughly 265Wh every 24hrs.
I don’t sell systems, au contraire.
Have zero clue how much that fridge is drawing 24hrs in those conditions, so can’t comment.
200W panel is not overpaneling? You can run a Dometic CFX3 55 with a 90W Victron panel (they don’t make any smaller) assuming roughly 3 hrs of sun everyday with a 500Wh battery. 500 Wh is generous BTW, you might use a smaller one.
Yes, obviously the Bluetti is long gone to the dealer which was very helpful I have to admit.
I get your point completely. And the fridge doesnt also draw maximum wattage when its just at its optimum. The waste on both AC and DC is really disappointing with these. Im gutted as I feel Ive chosen the wrong brand.
. Good luck,.you’re gonna need it.