@BLUETTI_CARE There is one test I did not do during my review of the Elite 100 v2, due to the device being installed in my 4 x4.
This is in relation to my observation, along with others, relative to the 1,800W inverter not running compressor devices such as Refrigerators and small RV Air Conditioners. Especially, in that the devices I have work from a Honda petrol (Gas) generator with a constant load of only 1,600W.
As noted in other posts, I have a 375W Victron PSW Bluesmart inverter which I have now removed from my 4x4 as it will not charge the Elite 100. One of the tests during my initial review was on my small drinks fridge. It is a 90lt fridge with a small (ice cubes) freezer section, running on 240VAC at a rated 90W, not a high load.
It failed to run from the Elite 100 v2 and since then I have tested it to run from all of the power stations I have. AC70, AC180 & AC200P. This fridge FAILED to run on any of them.
On to this mornings test, I connected the Victron 375W inverter to a spare fully charged 100Ah LFP. The Fridge was then connected to the inverter with a power meter. It WORKED perfectly at between 55-60W draw. (When the compressor started it was 60W and stabilised at 55-56W).
When trying to run from any of my Bluetti’s, the compressor made clicking noises and the power meter wattage shot up to around double what it draws from grid power, then zero and repeated this for around 30 seconds, at which point I cut power to prevent damage to the fridge.
So, my question is this - If the fridge works seemlessly from the grid at 240-242VAC at around the 60W power draw and works seemlessly from a Victron 375W Inverter at a similar power draw and at 230VAC, Why does it not work at 230VAC from a 1,000W, 1,800W or 2,000W Bluetti inverter?
Given that it works from a 375W inverter, Start up or in rush current is definitely not a factor.
Hmm that’s interesting! What frequency is your bluetti set to? Being your using 240v, I’m assuming you’re located in the EU? In which you should probably be set to 50hz rather then 60hz here in the states. It’s odd cause you mentioned none of the other bluetti’s would power it either when I use a little eb3a to power a freezer as a backup power source for over 3 years now, and haven’t had issues with that old little beast. What error code is popping up?
I am located in AU “down under” and yes all of my power stations are set to 50Hz (Set on delivery, but non the less checked by me)
Not to restate that said several times in other posts. I have a total of 5 fridges. Three, are the 4x4 Engel, the RV Dometic 110lt and the 30lt RV drawer fridge. They are all nominal 12V fridges, the 30lt 12VDC only (hardwired). The Engel is a different compressor and inbuilt power supply. The 110lt is a 12V run from the house batteries, its 240VAC supply is a power brick that converts 240VAC to 12VDC. Their 240VAC inputs all work from Bluetti’s
My main home fridge is a 240VAC only inverter model at 540lt (not small) It works from all the power stations stations. With one reservation - Although it works from the Elite 100v2, the Watts on the power meter are higher than the grid, the other Bluetti AC*** and the E100’s display shows double that load. (Not normal and noted in my previous testing posts)
The issue I highlighted is the Husky 90lt drinks fridge I own, rated at 90W, it won’t work from any of the noted PS’s, but will from the Victron inverter or Grid with no issue.
Believe me, I have tried everything I can think of. (FYI I am a retired electro/mech designer, with Quals in both fields, the last 30yrs in Aerospace R&D). Simple logic speaks to me saying, “process of elimination points to something in the design or componentry of the Bluettis this fridge does not like”. Others have noted fridges, airconditioners & dehumidifiers experiencing similar problems.
I am not disrespecting the Bluettis, I really like them. They power my RV’s 240VAC devices, except the aircon and my home grid out backup. Everything else works well. My experience tells me that designing for every device out there will run into some hurdles, lol.
Alsio noted, my RV Aircon draws around 1,200W, it works from a Honda 2kVA with a continuous run of 1,600W. Yet an 1,800W power station continuous run load won’t. It’s compressor “hammer’s” and won’t run. (I only powered it for around 10 seconds as I did not want to blow up the aircon.
I just need to remember to turn off the Husky fridge before throwing the generator transfer switch over to power stations in a grid out and never run the RV aircon from one. 
Just in case you ask - Yes all Firmware is up to date and regularly checked. Except the 200P, not App connected.
I had an issue with my chest freezer using the E100V2. The compressor would start, with E100v2’s display saying it is pulling 2x the expected power, then stop after less than a minute, only to try and repeat again later. The freezer would never really run. My larger Apex300 and real utility grid doesn’t have issue. I corresponded with BLUETTI on this and eventually received a firmware update, after the update, my freezer would run fine, even though the E100v2 wattage indicator is 30% higher than an inline measurement using another power meter. I attributed that to measuring VA rather than Watts given the inductive power factor. What firmware are you on?
@snowstorm The same as you
IOT v8024.11
ARM v2186.14
DSP v2200.12
BMS v1083.07
And yes, my 2 x AC70, 3 x AC180 and Charger 1 are all up to date as well. However that update is recent, so standby I’ll recheck the Husky using the Elite 100v2…
Oki, 10 minutes later, lol - I rechecked the Elite 100 operating the Husky, Lo & Behold, it works. The compressor runs smothly, however, I have the same issue as you note.
As pictured, the App shows a 94W AC load, the Elite’s display shows a 92W AC load (close enough). However my external power meter shows the actual load the fridge is using is 52.7W, that’s a 39W difference.
@BLUETTI_CARE So, I’ll tag this to Bluetti; Given the fridge is using 53W and the Elite 100’s display is showing 92W being provided, does this mean that almost 75% more power is being provided to run this fridge? Or, a more pertinent Q is, When calculating run time, should I use the Elite’s displayed W rather than the actual power consumed?
My second Q. To date, none of my AC70s or AC180s will run this fridge. Can a similar firmware update be provided to those power stations to correct a similar issue? Please forward to the Tech Team for analysis.
And from my perspective, a big thankyou for this latest update re the Elite 100. I will retest my AC70s & AC180s operating this fridge, recheck their update versions and post the results later today.
FYI, the first AC180 was a pre password version, the other 2 I own, have that App function. does this make any difference to their functionality re firmware update?
I’ve retested one of my AC70s & my original AC180 to run the Husky fridge;
- Their respective Firmware versions are both at the latest versions.
- The AC70, showed 53.8W from the power meter, and 102W from both the App & AC70 display. However, there was a clicking noise when my ear was against the fridge cabinet.
- The AC180’s display and external power meter, shot up to 478W for around 7 seconds, then cut out all together. (The Fridge cutout, not the AC180) I ended the testing as this is 5 times the rated maximum of the fridge.
I then reconnected the Elite 100 to the fridge. When the thermostat restarted it showed the same results as my previous pictured post working ok, no clicking. Finally fridge back to grid and low 50sW draw, working ok. So at least I didn’t blow up the compressor.
Conclusion - The AC70 worked after a fashion, but with the clicking noise, I would not risk long term use, The AC180 watts surge, means I definitely won’t be running that fridge from any of the AC180s and as they are the Grid backup units, I still need to disconnect it from its power outlet before transferring power for the house to the AC180s. I would then need to connect it directly to the Elite 100 if I wanted a cold beer, lol.
You may need to give the fridge a 5 min break if you disconnect power while the compressor is running, before plugging it back in. It builds up pressure and the next start would be really hard, which may cause the surge and give up situation.
I wonder if the E100V2’s display which reads high is showing VA including reactive power while the external watt meter is measuring real power only. Fridge compressors are highly inductive and that may cause the difference.
I’ll keep this in mind, I’ve packed everything away for today, but will try again at some oportune time.
Does your Husky fridge has a “conventional” compressor with one of those PTC starting circuits? My Wallmart small Fridgidair would not run propery until the latest FW.
There is something odd about the inverter and the PTC device where it seems it not heating up enough to fully disconnect the start circuit.
But my E100V2 has no trouble running my old school small window AC.
Regarding your watt display, I used one of the kill-a-watt style plug in meters and it shows ~60watts where as the E100V2 shows like 150 or so.
I don’t know what kind it is, but its a Cheapy.