So, I purchased a couple of AC180s to help with some more frequent power outages in my area. I bought them primarily for my refrigerators, etc. What is the best practice for storing these? I read you store them at 60%. Is there any particular reason? I want to store these correctly but be available for when the power goes out, but 60% is concerning if the power goes out? That means I’m starting with less uptime.
Do I want to use/store these correctly? Please share your thoughts, concerns, and feedback.
I’m in a similar situation - I have 2 x AC180s in the Walk in Robe (where the generator transfer switch and main circuit breaker boxes are).
They only get used in the event of a Grid outage and are currently at 100% SOC.
I go solo camping several times a year. Here, I connect them all up, so in the event of a power failure, all my wife has to do is, change the transfer switch to Generator and turn on the 2 x AC180s. They sit one on top of the other, the lower AC180’s output is connected to the upper AC180’s input. The upper AC180’s output is connected to the generator input plug, which powers all GPO 240VAC outlets, but not lighting. I have some free standing lights that connect to the wall outlets (GPO’s). This gives the house the combined capacity, less efficiency losses.
I also have an AC70 permanently in pass through UPS mode connected to the home WiFi Router and Security System. It will also get charged from the generator switched AC180s in a grid out.
I also have a 3rd AC180 and an AC200P that can be used to recharge the generator plugged AC180s if needed.
Along with portable solar and or petrol generator for recharging during the day.
When at home for extended periods, I leave all power stations at 75-80% SOC. This will allow initial power and the ability to transfer capacity from spare power stations to the 2 primary AC180s. These spares then can be recharged as per point 3.
If absolutely needed, I also have the ability to recharge from my vehicle via the Charger 1 or a 375W installed inverter.
All up, I have 1 x 2,000W, 4 x 1,800W, 2 x 1,000W inverters for a total of 11.2kW. Their combined capacity is just over 8kWh. As an aside, I’ve noted that in a grid outage and using minimal devices i.e. Fridge, TV, Internet and some LED lighting, the average usage is around 0.5kW. Overnight when in bed this drops to an average of less than 0.1kW. So plenty to get by. (This does not include Air Con use for heating and cooling, or heavy use cooking appliances, we have LPG gas hotwater and cooktop.)
Forgot to mention, the reason the house lighting circuit is not on generator transfer - I turn one light on where I am, As the grid is out it is not lit). When the grid comes back up, the light turns on and tells me to transfer the house back to grid. As mentioned with several plug in lights, battery lanterns and torches, there’s plenty of lighting.
The 2 Aircons and Electric oven are not on generator transfer as their loads are too high.
All my power stations were bought at times of “On Sale” prices, cost half what an installed home battery does and I have full control, not the Power Network. (I have on roof Solar, but that automatically turns off in grid outages to protect repair crews from being electrocuted.)
You could employ the same strategy I do. Store them at 100% SOC, but cycle them once a month to keep the battery chemistry balanced and the BMS calibrated.. Cycling means doing a full discharge then recharge. Keeping them at 100% is only an issue if you expose them to extreme heat and NEVER use them for a LONG time. If you simply cycle them occasionally not only do you keep the BMS calibrated but you are always at 100% in time of need. Granted there is a very small window of risk, that is, you decide to power cycle them RIGHT when the power goes down, but perhaps when you do discharge them you can simply plug it INTO the fridge so you ARE prepared IF it does happen. ANOTHER CRITICAL TIP: Make sure your fridge is compatible with your AC180. The Bluetti can ruin the appliance. If possible listen to the unit when its plugged into the wall from shore power and observe the expected wattage with kill-a-watt meter (if avaialble). Then listen to how it sounds when plugged into Bluetti. Any type of buzzing sound, or vibration from compressor/AC motor is NOT good (i.e. the unit shakes a lot). Not all compressor driven appliances are compatible with Bluetti units. Just a simple look at some recent issues on this forum and you’ll see why. I have had good luck running my fridge and dehumidifier on my AC180 though to be fair, but not all appliances are equal.