Solar setup experience sharing

Product Discussion
1

Hey, if you are using solar systems or power stations, feel free to share your setup and experience. It can help others who are just getting started.

2

I have owned the following Bluetti Power Stations in my lifetime:

  • (1) Bluetti Elite 300
  • (2) Bluetti AC180
  • (1) Bluetti AC70
  • (1) Bluetti EB70S
  • (1) Bluetti EB3A
  • (1) Bluetti Elite 30

By far my least favorite power station is the EB3A followed by the EB70S and the AC70. The EB3A is plagued with a hardware design flaw that causes UPS mode to quit working reliably. The EB70S has ZERO app function capability and limited solar input. The AC70’s inverter is just average and won’t run my 300W dehumidifier and isn’t powerful enough to run a microwave or otherwise useful higher wattage appliance. It’s weight is ALMOST as much as the Elite 100 series which is more capable putting it in a weird position. You are better off going 1Kwh or just sticking to lightweight portable in my opinion.

I have owned the following Bluetti portable solar panels:

  • (1) Gen 1 Bluetti PV350
  • (2) Gen 2 Bluetti PV350
  • (1) Gen 1 Bluetti PV200
  • (1) Gen 1 Bluetti PV200

By far my least favorite solar panel is the Gen 2 PV350. They are absolutely horrendous and only excel at one task, which is ease of use deploying in a flat configuration. The fastening mechanism of the solar panel (aka the buttons you snap to keep the panels close) have come off on one of my panels already in less than 3 months of use. The process of tilting the panel is too cumbersome. The Gen 2 PV200 has the same design but because its only 200 watts and half the weight, setting up the panel is a little more bearable. I absolutely love the Gen 1 PV350. Easy to setup. Simple sturdy velcro. Output is higher because the panel is easier to put at an optimal angle. Bluetti needs to add a redundant fastening system so you can still securely close the panels after use. For example, use a buckle + button system, or heck buckle + button + velcro. Eliminate single point of failure. They also need to make the storage bag for the solar cable storage user replaceable. It is currently stitched in and has failed on me three times now (Gen 1 PV350, Gen 1 PV200, and Gen 2 PV350). @BLUETTI_CARE Consumer experience tip for you!

A few experience tips:

  • The more storage potential relative to the size the better. There is a reason why I bought the Elite 300. For its compact size, relative to the amount of energy you get in return allows you to comfortably run a 12V fridge for 24-48 hours on those days where there is no Sun.

  • Keep in mind the gauge of your solar wire. While some power stations CAN support 15/20 amps of solar, your gauge of wire may NOT. For example I use a DC7909 parallel splitter with Y branch that is 14AWG at the MAIN branch and 16AWG at the connection point. I plug in one of my Gen 2 PV350 panels into each and lay them flat. They each output around 7 amps and 32V. 16AWG wire can handle up to 10 amps safely, while 14AWG can handle 15 amps. You would need a thicker gauge wire (preferably 10AWG) to safely run 20 amps continuous. I have 3 PV350s but I can’t join them all together to produce 20 amps because it’s an electrical/fire hazard. What I do instead is run two PV200s in series and connect that to my AC180, then I set up and tilt my Gen 1 PV350 and connect that to my Elite 100, while the two gen 2 PV350s I leave flat on the ground and connected to the main Elite 300. If my AC70 is topped off I can connect the PV200 array to the Y branch adapter of Elite 100 and produce safely still under 15 amps when combined to enhance charge the Elite 100. When I do this configuration I have to lay the panels flat as not to exceed 15 amps, otherwise my Gen 1 PV350 CAN produce almost 10 amps in full sun when tilted, which pushes me over the safety limit of 15A for the gauge of wire I have.

  • The app is very convenient to have, especially if you have the power stations stuffed behind something or out of the way. For example in my truck camper rig its underneath the bed platform all the way to the back. I find that the Bluetooth does “occasionally” quit working or bugs out so I have no choice but to power off and power back on the affected power station. My tip is to make sure you don’t make it TOO difficult to gain access to again. For my setup all I have to do is pull out 1 or 2 totes and can gain access to the back of the truck bed, so its not buried that badly behind stuff.

  • Store your power station in the coolest portion of your rig. An optimal location for me is under bed storage as its shaded and 15 degrees cooler than ambient temp at the top of the bed. The biggest drawback of these power stations is thermal resilience. They are not very resilient AT all. They won’t charge below 32F/0C and they won’t charge ABOVE 104F/40C. You can’t put it in a hot camper with no ventilation in the desert and you can’t store it in an frigid van in the north without supplementing it with some sort of relief application (aka air conditioning or heat). This is important when planning out your build because if you only have passive cooling, you HAVE to avoid temperature extremes. This means following the Sun and chasing 70 degrees/avoiding extremes. From my experience its far easier to stay warmer than cooler. Once your rig gets TOO cold the unit simply refuses to charge and if its near 32F/0C it will only charge minimally to protect the battery.

  • You can supplement the items with a heating pad provided you have sufficient storage/solar regeneration, otherwise you have no choice but to have it in a climate controlled region. Bluetti should have designed self-heating element into these units because if you ever leave your rig unattended for a long period of time, the temperature will quickly dip back to freezing (@BLUETTI_CARE Consumer experience tip for you!). My primary source of heat is catalytic propane heat so I can’t exactly leave my rig unattended. Fine if I’m inside the rig, but what if I want to go out on a quick hike or check out the sites? Just a few hours later and the rig is back to freezing again. Easy come easy go. This is why its easier to chase 70 degrees or just ensure you are at an RV Park with electric hookup so you can manage a electric heater. This limits not only WHERE you can go but WHEN you can go.