Hi.
The AC180p user manual says - “The self-consumption of AC180P is about 15W.”
I assume that this power is spent on the 220v inverter and the operation of the fans for its periodic cooling.
When I use only DC Output 12v for the router and laptop, the fans do not turn on and I assume that the main inverter does not either.
What is the AC180P’s own consumption in this case?
Nobody will be able to give you a specific answer. There are too many factors involved and every use case is different. Just try it out for yourself and let us know the result. 
@igor469 The fan will not turn on to cool down when the power and operating temperature do not reach the required levels. Yes, the 15W power consumption has no significant deviation.
This is true, but I don’t know how to measure it. Also, the internal power indicator is not very accurate in the range of 0 - 100 watts. My guess is from 1 to 10 watts, but it’s just a guess.
The smallest device I have that is 240VAC supplied is my electric toothbrush charger base. It does not register on the display at all.
However, there is still an impost on the battery with self consumption. Self consumption does not register as a load on the display, it is a background load. So, over time with no loads plugged in and the inverter on, the battery will slowly discharge.
Ok, let me clarify the problem.
I need the longest possible operation of my router from the station.
Many days. You can supply 12-20 volts to its input.
I can -
Which option is the most correct and economical from the point of view of the station’s circuitry?
@igor469 in my opinion, using a DC option will always use less battery capacity as the unit doesn’t need to power the inverter to convert DC to AC and back to DC again. I would suggest that the USB connections would be the best DC option to use, but any of the DC options should use less capacity than the 220 AC outlet. Make sure you have ECO mode off to prevent auto shutdown if the wattage draw remains low, and of course turn off the AC output.
Thanks for your reply.
I will probably try to conduct real tests with measuring the operating time in all 4 options.
Even though it will take several weeks.
Only your tests will tell the truth!
But if I had to bet I’d say USBC/20VDC… if you can get that voltage out to the USB C to power your router I have a hunch it’s the most energy efficient as 20V is closer to the voltage of the battery which must be at around fifty volts and moreover this makes it possible to have a lower intensity which reduces the losses by joule effect. But that’s without counting the DC DC conversion in your router which also plays a role.
I’ve seen some Youtube tests that show battery consumption using small loads can be more efficient using the AC rather than DC. The battery voltage is 32VDC, so you either step up to 220V using the inverter or step down to 12VDC or 5VDC using the DC outputs. There is still a conversion loss factor either way. Testing your run time with all scenarios is the best option as mentioned.
For me, my fibre optic box and Wi-Fi router are usually grid supplied at home, I use AC connection as it provides UPS if the grid goes down. The combined load is around 25W, from a 752Wh AC70 of which I have around 600W usable = 24 hours run time. The AC180 has around 900W usable = 36 hours run time. These are approx calculations. ECO mode is turned off.
For mobile use in my caravan, I use a mobile phone Wi-Fi hotspot to feed my smart TV, laptop or tablet. They all run from my RV house batteries via 12V adaptors or USB sockets wired to the 12VDC system. However, I have 200Ah of LiFePo4 and 460W of solar so runtime is never an issue.