I tested both the AC180 & Elite 100 v2 on each of the caravan A/Con & M/Wave. Here are their specs;
A/C - Cooling & Heating Capacity 2,400W - Power draw at 240VAC = Cooling 950W, Heating 850W.
M/Wave - 20lt - Output 700W - Poser draw at 240VAC = 1200W.
I first tested the M/Wave, it worked well from both power stations, AC180 showed 1,371W load on the display. The Elite 100 v2 showed 1,256W on its display. This tells me the Elite has a much more efficient inverter conversion.
Then I tried the A/C, first from the AC180, it spun up, fan worked, compressor seemed to work, but was only drawing 423W. The A/C was set to 30C heat, but not much hot air. I next set it to cool at 16C, it seemed to cool but made some whirring noises, so quickly got shut down. The AC180 is ok no damage and the display seemed stable.
Next the Elite 100 v2, it spun the fan up at around 34W load. I had checked the A/C user manual where it stated "up to 3 minutes may delay to protect the compressor. A short time later (2-3min) I heard the compressor kick in then start “thumping” around once a second. I had my finger over the E1v2’s AC button and around the 3rd or 4th thump turned AC off. At that point I stopped, concluding not to risk either the A/C or Elite.
CONCLUSION - Neither power station would operate the A/C, both will successfully power the M/Wave.
Go figure, the M/W is a 50% higher load at around 2/3 of inverter capacity. The A/C is around 1/2 the inverter load and NO GO.
As an aside my Honda EU20i is rated at 2kVA, (power factor of 0.8) which equates to a 1,600W constant load, 200W less than either Bluetti and I do know it will seamlessly run the A/C.
This is of no concern to me, here’s why; I use the power bank/s to run the M/W for 6-10 minutes most days = 5+ days without a recharge from their batteries. As well as, other small kitchen appliances and device rechargers. Running the A/C would last a fraction over 1.5 hours, which is hardly worth switching on. I have a Sirocco Fan for warmer weather that draws around 15-30W, speed dependent. For heating I have a diesel heater that draws around 20W once the glo pin cuts out. Both a far more economical use of battery capacity and both @ 12VDC from the RV house batteries.
I feel for you, re your dehumidifier. :)
There is obviously something sensitive in the Bluetti’s that don’t like something else in A/Cs. What? I don’t know, it’s well above my pay grade, lol.
One in particular, that Aussies are largely responsible for things like; The aircraft “Blackbox” (actually bright orange in colour), WiFi, yup that’s a fact, Penicillin and a few others.
While we are on the topic of compressors, don’t forget the refrigerator. Well, he was really Scotish, but Scotish-Australian. Half point for me.
Fair enough, lol. Here’s a little more Aussie humour…
Some Americans, may think Australia is behind the times, or even backward, but I can prove that we are in front of the U.S. all of the time.
When it’s 0930 in the morning where I am, it’s 2000 (8pm) in New York.
But, the day before !!! We’re always in front , lol.
Re the fridge, my home inverter fridge works perfectly off the AC70, AC180, AC200P. I haven’t checked it with the Elite 100 yet, sound like another test, back in 5.
@BLUETTI@sealy1986 Well, that’s a surprise. From the AC180 it draws approx 133W and works fine.
Connected the E1V2, it started clicking like a relay on/off about 5 times and settled at 76W. I turned it off real quick.
For the time being, I would call that a fail. I’m not game to use a 520lt fridge as a “Guinea Pig”.
Re grid outage backup, I will, for now, not be using the Elite 100 V2 on the house circuits. I’ll tag Bluetti Admin to get this post to refer it up to Tech Support. Perhaps you do the same with your Dehumidifier issue.
Update to this post
Following a DSP update, I retested my home fridge from the E1v2. It now works as it should and provides similar Watts to my other power stations and the Grid. For further information re these DSP updates and the issues resolved check this link; Review Part 2
Given that I have a 90lt Fridge that won’t work on any of my power stations, but will from grid power and now my caravan Air Con and house fridge not working from the E1V2, plus your issues. Something has changed in inverter output.
I have Victron and Projecta inverters, plus 2 PSW inverter generators, that have absolutely no issue running anything I have tried within their output limits, so what’s changed?
I immediately reconnected it to the grid, with my power meter inline, it’s Watt meter showed 123W, almost double.
As it is an inverter fridge, I don’t know enough about the electronics to know if a. it would work properly, or b. cause damage with a low voltage at almost half that of grid supply.
That coupled with the clicking sound from the Elite 100, I decided to not pursue any further testing.
Earlier today, I connected both an AC180 and the Elite 100 to my caravan Air Conditioner. It’s compressor sounded like it was about to throw a bearing with the “knocking”. It too was very quickly turned off. The A/C is rated at 950W max when on cooling and has a soft start at up to 3 minutes.
To add to the above: Around 15 minutes ago, the fridge was drawing 137W from the grid, I believe this is when it is in defrost mode as when I placed my ear to the cabinet, the sound was similar to quietly running water.
I just checked again and the load is 97W, by ear again, it sounded like the compressor running. Which means I didn’t damage it.
The compressor is so quiet, that standing next to it, it is almost impossible to detect any noise.
The clicking sound was from the Elite 100. I’ll PM you the SN DSP versions.
Thanks for such a detailed review with practical tests.
I have been considering the Elite100v2 as a replacement for an older PS72 or EB70. I use these to run my AC domestic fridge and would like to extend the run time.
Thanks for detailing the issues you experienced trying to run air con and fridges. I saw Hobotech’s review where there were also issues trying to start up air con even though it was within the specs of the Elite 100. The appliances with issues seem to be those with compressors. As starting and running my fridge’s compressor would be the Elite100’s main task I am a bit concerned about potential issues with the Elite100 being able to do this.
I would be interested to know what might cause such an issue? Also, whether it is one that Bluetti can solve with an update.
Right lol. You think that’s whacky, look up Big Diomede vs Little Diomede Islands. They are islands that border Alaska/Russia just 5km apart. Currently Saturday July 5th, 4:13AM on Russian side. Currently Friday, July 4th, 8:13AM on U.S side. The reason why its 21 hour difference is they are on opposite ends of the International Date Line. On the Russian side they call Big Diomede “Tomorrow Island” and on U.S side Little Diomede “Yesterday Island”. I feel sorry for the poor sucker who asks for a day off work, heads into Russia for a bit and comes back and the boss says “Alright buddy back to work!”
Update on the fridge issue - I am in PM contact with @BLUETTI.
I detailed the problem.
Their Tech Team, pushed a DSP update to me.
On opening the App, the E1V2 also required an IOT update.
The IOT was updated first, the the DSP update.
I retested the fridge as follows;
a. With my power meter inline from the grid only.
b. From my AC180 - noting the display Watts and with my power meter plugged into the AC outlet of the AC180 to compare what the power station display Watts were and the actual Watts the fridge was drawing.
c. The same setup as item 2. but with E1v2.
I waited until my fridge cycle started for each test, so it took a little time to do. At start up it hovered at around 47W for a minute or so, then increased to the 100W mark in around 10 seconds. This is the inverter fridge soft start.
The results;
(PWMTR = Power Meter - U/DIS = Power Station Display.)
The power meter value is what the fridge is drawing in power and is similar in value in all 3 connections. At 47W = 2W range, at 100W = 5W range.
The anomaly is the E1V2’s displayed value, it’s high and I’ve FWD this to Bluetti. (Awaiting response) Whereas, the AC180 showed a difference of 3 to 4W.
The Good - The fridge is working perfectly in all instances, so the update appears to work. No feedback yet on if this fixes the A/C issue. Weather does not allow me to try another test, yet and I would like guidance from the Tech Guys first.
Quite a thorough review, minus solar but understandable given it is winter there. You are the Scott Benson of Oz.
I am waiting on my units, but have a few observations:
Bluetti missed an opportunity to make the charge rate more selectable. 600W is higher than I like to charge via AC. Various competitors allow a much wider range of charge rate.
I avoid using turbo boost or whatever they call it, for any sensitive electronics, things with screens, and inductive loads. Actually, I avoid it altogether.
I believe the idea for the DC outputs was to make it so one of the 5521s could output 8A, so you could use a 5521 to fridge cable instead of using the cig port to fridge, which some people find less secure. Of course, then you cannot use the cig port at the same time. I am glad to see they put the 5521s back after abandoning them. I find them very useful for fridge but also for modem or any other wall wart with a barrel plug.
I am anxiously awaiting my units so I can try them out with my new 400W OptiSolex solar blankets. They are N-type 16BB, and with the E1V2 solar input parameters, I can wire two in parallel.
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I am disappointed in the Silent and Standard charge being the same. I’m a couple of days away from going remote camping. I’ve checked where and what I can carry for this trip and in consideration of weather. Solar will play a large part of my RV charging and may not be enough, given the weather. So, probably nothing to spare for the power stations. The only option is to carry a petrol generator, for backup.
I’m down to carrying the Elite 100 v2 and one of my AC70s. The 70 will be in the 4x4 for Starlink and small appliances. The E1v2 in the RV primarily for the microwave. It will be a very tight squeeze re weight and space to carry my 100Ah LFP, so the Charger 1 is a redundancy for now, as it’s not installed. Even if it were, if camped without driving, idling a Turbo Diesel 4x4 is not a good thing to do. I don’t have time to do a full GVM/ATM weigh and don’t want to travel overweight, which is illegal here, with insurance voided.
I can charge the AC70 from the 4x4’s 375W Victron inverter, but not the E1v2. The Elite is also pushing the limit on the Generator. Worst case is to charge the E1v2 from the AC70, then use the genny or Victron to charge it.
The other thing I considered was, how to secure the power stations and if taken the battery. There’s only so much space and tie down points, not always available. The 2 Bluettis will be in the front seat floor pan, back to back, with a soft spacer and tied to the seat mounts with straps.
If the E1v2 had the same Silent mode 300W limit as the AC70 & AC180, it would a total winner for me… but, can’t have it all sometimes, lol. I’m not sure if a firmware update will address this, might ask when I return.
I was hoping to take the Elite + AC70 + AC180 + 100Ah LFP + Charger 1 and an AC multi stage charger. With cables, that’s a lot to carry, when I need food, drink etc and the “kitchen sink”, lol. I don’t even have space for my 2 x 120W solar blankets in the 4by. The 2 x 150 solar mats are always in the caravan.
The RV has 2 x 20lt water jerries for spare H2O. A 3rd was going in the rear of the 4x4. That’s also staying home due to no space.
