My upcoming trip is not for a bit over 2 weeks. In the past I have taken an AC180 & AC70 only, to give me off grid 240V. This trip, I am taking the E1v2, AC70 & a 100 Ah LFP with the Charger 1. The AC180 is staying home.
So, just for you; it’s too late today and tomorrow morning we have an appointment. Looking at the weather forecast, tomorrow afternoon will be ok. I’ll take the E1v2 and the AC180 to the caravan (it’s in a storage lockup a 5 min drive away).
The RV has a 240VAC cable hardwired that is pulled out as required from a small hatch in the side of the caravan. It has a 15A plug, which will not fit into a 10A socket. However, I have a legal converter box, with a 10A lead to the box which contains a 15A socket and a 10A circuit breaker. Like my house, the A/C is hardwired (no plug), which will require me to turn the battery charger and microwave off. (they are the only 2 fixtures that use shore power)
I think I’ve tried the 180, but can’t remember, so I’ll try again. Then the E1v2. I’ll post the results here, for you in a little over 24 hours time, excepting unforeseen circumstances, lol. Including specs and actual loads.
Keep in mind, it’s winter here, so it will be on reverse cycle heating mode.
Correct. Most outlets will supply continuous power unless you flip the switch at the breaker. I lived in one/two/three bedroom apartments for most of my life and they are either in the kitchen area or laundry room. The common theme you will see for “switched” applications is a wall mounted switch, which can cut power to “some” outlets, generally a lamp. We are behind the times a bit. I come to find out the world does not revolve around “us” go figure! lol When I first saw a Type C prong I assumed it was an alien device or something. I am so used to Type B. But go figure, your plug (type I) is mostly only in Australia so other plugs are somewhat foreign to you, but because you are close to EU, its likely more familiar and easier to convert since you run 220-240V. If I wanted to take my appliance overseas I would need a voltage converter.
Another weird one is our slow adoption to requiring chip-based encryption on payment terminals. For the longest time we just had mag swipe which can be cloned very easily. UNENCRYPTED. We just started forcing adoption in 2024. In the U.S we have a compliance law called PCI-DSS which protects cardholder data, and while legitimate transactions are indeed encrypted at the terminal before they are stored at the “machine” level, this doesn’t prevent a criminal from simply intercepting the signal at the endpoint and skimming the card. This absolves the company of liability and places the burden on the end user. Some skimmers are clever and fit INSIDE a terminal so there’s no witness marks or anything loose on the outside like old school ones.
Interesting, I’ve watched a number of U.S. Youtubers, doing AU comparisons, many are amazed at us and this continent. Saying similar to you “revolve around us”, lol. One in particular, that Aussies are largely responsible for things like; The aircraft “Blackbox” (actually bright orange in colour), WiFi, yup that’s a fact, Penicillin and a few others.
Re switched plug sockets, I find the biggest plus here is this; In my house I have 15 double outlets, 3 single outlets and outside 3 weatherproof outlets. They are spread out to 4 RCDO circuit breakers (Earth leakage protection).
All GPO’s are switchable, so, if a device has a fault (short) it will only trip that RCDO’s breaker, not the whole house. If there is an issue with one device in the house, it’s then a matter of turning off the GPOs on that circuit, resetting the RCDO and switching each power point on, one at a time. i.e. if the kitchen electric kettle was the fault, when I get to it, turn on and power is cut, I know the fault without needing a multi meter, lol. (I used that as an example, as it has actually happened.)
I’ll take a piccy of my breaker box for your enjoyment, lol. later today.
We’ve had chipped base Cards since 2001 and Polymer bank notes since 1988, another AU invention…
I tested both the AC180 & Elite 100 v2 on each of the caravan A/Con & M/Wave. Here are their specs;
A/C - Cooling & Heating Capacity 2,400W - Power draw at 240VAC = Cooling 950W, Heating 850W.
M/Wave - 20lt - Output 700W - Poser draw at 240VAC = 1200W.
I first tested the M/Wave, it worked well from both power stations, AC180 showed 1,371W load on the display. The Elite 100 v2 showed 1,256W on its display. This tells me the Elite has a much more efficient inverter conversion.
Then I tried the A/C, first from the AC180, it spun up, fan worked, compressor seemed to work, but was only drawing 423W. The A/C was set to 30C heat, but not much hot air. I next set it to cool at 16C, it seemed to cool but made some whirring noises, so quickly got shut down. The AC180 is ok no damage and the display seemed stable.
Next the Elite 100 v2, it spun the fan up at around 34W load. I had checked the A/C user manual where it stated "up to 3 minutes may delay to protect the compressor. A short time later (2-3min) I heard the compressor kick in then start “thumping” around once a second. I had my finger over the E1v2’s AC button and around the 3rd or 4th thump turned AC off. At that point I stopped, concluding not to risk either the A/C or Elite.
CONCLUSION - Neither power station would operate the A/C, both will successfully power the M/Wave.
Go figure, the M/W is a 50% higher load at around 2/3 of inverter capacity. The A/C is around 1/2 the inverter load and NO GO.
As an aside my Honda EU20i is rated at 2kVA, (power factor of 0.8) which equates to a 1,600W constant load, 200W less than either Bluetti and I do know it will seamlessly run the A/C.
This is of no concern to me, here’s why; I use the power bank/s to run the M/W for 6-10 minutes most days = 5+ days without a recharge from their batteries. As well as, other small kitchen appliances and device rechargers. Running the A/C would last a fraction over 1.5 hours, which is hardly worth switching on. I have a Sirocco Fan for warmer weather that draws around 15-30W, speed dependent. For heating I have a diesel heater that draws around 20W once the glo pin cuts out. Both a far more economical use of battery capacity and both @ 12VDC from the RV house batteries.
I feel for you, re your dehumidifier. :)
There is obviously something sensitive in the Bluetti’s that don’t like something else in A/Cs. What? I don’t know, it’s well above my pay grade, lol.
One in particular, that Aussies are largely responsible for things like; The aircraft “Blackbox” (actually bright orange in colour), WiFi, yup that’s a fact, Penicillin and a few others.
While we are on the topic of compressors, don’t forget the refrigerator. Well, he was really Scotish, but Scotish-Australian. Half point for me.
Fair enough, lol. Here’s a little more Aussie humour…
Some Americans, may think Australia is behind the times, or even backward, but I can prove that we are in front of the U.S. all of the time.
When it’s 0930 in the morning where I am, it’s 2000 (8pm) in New York.
But, the day before !!! We’re always in front , lol.
Re the fridge, my home inverter fridge works perfectly off the AC70, AC180, AC200P. I haven’t checked it with the Elite 100 yet, sound like another test, back in 5.
@BLUETTI@sealy1986 Well, that’s a surprise. From the AC180 it draws approx 133W and works fine.
Connected the E1V2, it started clicking like a relay on/off about 5 times and settled at 76W. I turned it off real quick.
For the time being, I would call that a fail. I’m not game to use a 520lt fridge as a “Guinea Pig”.
Re grid outage backup, I will, for now, not be using the Elite 100 V2 on the house circuits. I’ll tag Bluetti Admin to get this post to refer it up to Tech Support. Perhaps you do the same with your Dehumidifier issue.
Update to this post
Following a DSP update, I retested my home fridge from the E1v2. It now works as it should and provides similar Watts to my other power stations and the Grid. For further information re these DSP updates and the issues resolved check this link; Review Part 2
Given that I have a 90lt Fridge that won’t work on any of my power stations, but will from grid power and now my caravan Air Con and house fridge not working from the E1V2, plus your issues. Something has changed in inverter output.
I have Victron and Projecta inverters, plus 2 PSW inverter generators, that have absolutely no issue running anything I have tried within their output limits, so what’s changed?
I immediately reconnected it to the grid, with my power meter inline, it’s Watt meter showed 123W, almost double.
As it is an inverter fridge, I don’t know enough about the electronics to know if a. it would work properly, or b. cause damage with a low voltage at almost half that of grid supply.
That coupled with the clicking sound from the Elite 100, I decided to not pursue any further testing.
Earlier today, I connected both an AC180 and the Elite 100 to my caravan Air Conditioner. It’s compressor sounded like it was about to throw a bearing with the “knocking”. It too was very quickly turned off. The A/C is rated at 950W max when on cooling and has a soft start at up to 3 minutes.
To add to the above: Around 15 minutes ago, the fridge was drawing 137W from the grid, I believe this is when it is in defrost mode as when I placed my ear to the cabinet, the sound was similar to quietly running water.
I just checked again and the load is 97W, by ear again, it sounded like the compressor running. Which means I didn’t damage it.
The compressor is so quiet, that standing next to it, it is almost impossible to detect any noise.
The clicking sound was from the Elite 100. I’ll PM you the SN DSP versions.
Thanks for such a detailed review with practical tests.
I have been considering the Elite100v2 as a replacement for an older PS72 or EB70. I use these to run my AC domestic fridge and would like to extend the run time.
Thanks for detailing the issues you experienced trying to run air con and fridges. I saw Hobotech’s review where there were also issues trying to start up air con even though it was within the specs of the Elite 100. The appliances with issues seem to be those with compressors. As starting and running my fridge’s compressor would be the Elite100’s main task I am a bit concerned about potential issues with the Elite100 being able to do this.
I would be interested to know what might cause such an issue? Also, whether it is one that Bluetti can solve with an update.
Right lol. You think that’s whacky, look up Big Diomede vs Little Diomede Islands. They are islands that border Alaska/Russia just 5km apart. Currently Saturday July 5th, 4:13AM on Russian side. Currently Friday, July 4th, 8:13AM on U.S side. The reason why its 21 hour difference is they are on opposite ends of the International Date Line. On the Russian side they call Big Diomede “Tomorrow Island” and on U.S side Little Diomede “Yesterday Island”. I feel sorry for the poor sucker who asks for a day off work, heads into Russia for a bit and comes back and the boss says “Alright buddy back to work!”
Update on the fridge issue - I am in PM contact with @BLUETTI.
I detailed the problem.
Their Tech Team, pushed a DSP update to me.
On opening the App, the E1V2 also required an IOT update.
The IOT was updated first, the the DSP update.
I retested the fridge as follows;
a. With my power meter inline from the grid only.
b. From my AC180 - noting the display Watts and with my power meter plugged into the AC outlet of the AC180 to compare what the power station display Watts were and the actual Watts the fridge was drawing.
c. The same setup as item 2. but with E1v2.
I waited until my fridge cycle started for each test, so it took a little time to do. At start up it hovered at around 47W for a minute or so, then increased to the 100W mark in around 10 seconds. This is the inverter fridge soft start.
The results;
(PWMTR = Power Meter - U/DIS = Power Station Display.)
The power meter value is what the fridge is drawing in power and is similar in value in all 3 connections. At 47W = 2W range, at 100W = 5W range.
The anomaly is the E1V2’s displayed value, it’s high and I’ve FWD this to Bluetti. (Awaiting response) Whereas, the AC180 showed a difference of 3 to 4W.
The Good - The fridge is working perfectly in all instances, so the update appears to work. No feedback yet on if this fixes the A/C issue. Weather does not allow me to try another test, yet and I would like guidance from the Tech Guys first.
