When the display shows 76W, is the refrigerator still working normally?
I immediately reconnected it to the grid, with my power meter inline, it’s Watt meter showed 123W, almost double.
As it is an inverter fridge, I don’t know enough about the electronics to know if a. it would work properly, or b. cause damage with a low voltage at almost half that of grid supply.
That coupled with the clicking sound from the Elite 100, I decided to not pursue any further testing.
Earlier today, I connected both an AC180 and the Elite 100 to my caravan Air Conditioner. It’s compressor sounded like it was about to throw a bearing with the “knocking”. It too was very quickly turned off. The A/C is rated at 950W max when on cooling and has a soft start at up to 3 minutes.
Noted, is the clicking sound coming from the EL100 or the fridge?
Also, could you share the SN and DSP versions?
To add to the above: Around 15 minutes ago, the fridge was drawing 137W from the grid, I believe this is when it is in defrost mode as when I placed my ear to the cabinet, the sound was similar to quietly running water.
I just checked again and the load is 97W, by ear again, it sounded like the compressor running. Which means I didn’t damage it.
The compressor is so quiet, that standing next to it, it is almost impossible to detect any noise.
The clicking sound was from the Elite 100. I’ll PM you the SN DSP versions.
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Doing an update, will PM soon 
Edit, PM sent
Thanks for such a detailed review with practical tests.
I have been considering the Elite100v2 as a replacement for an older PS72 or EB70. I use these to run my AC domestic fridge and would like to extend the run time.
Thanks for detailing the issues you experienced trying to run air con and fridges. I saw Hobotech’s review where there were also issues trying to start up air con even though it was within the specs of the Elite 100. The appliances with issues seem to be those with compressors. As starting and running my fridge’s compressor would be the Elite100’s main task I am a bit concerned about potential issues with the Elite100 being able to do this.
I would be interested to know what might cause such an issue? Also, whether it is one that Bluetti can solve with an update.
Right lol. You think that’s whacky, look up Big Diomede vs Little Diomede Islands. They are islands that border Alaska/Russia just 5km apart. Currently Saturday July 5th, 4:13AM on Russian side. Currently Friday, July 4th, 8:13AM on U.S side. The reason why its 21 hour difference is they are on opposite ends of the International Date Line. On the Russian side they call Big Diomede “Tomorrow Island” and on U.S side Little Diomede “Yesterday Island”. I feel sorry for the poor sucker who asks for a day off work, heads into Russia for a bit and comes back and the boss says “Alright buddy back to work!” 
Update on the fridge issue - I am in PM contact with @BLUETTI.
- I detailed the problem.
- Their Tech Team, pushed a DSP update to me.
- On opening the App, the E1V2 also required an IOT update.
- The IOT was updated first, the the DSP update.
- I retested the fridge as follows;
a. With my power meter inline from the grid only.
b. From my AC180 - noting the display Watts and with my power meter plugged into the AC outlet of the AC180 to compare what the power station display Watts were and the actual Watts the fridge was drawing.
c. The same setup as item 2. but with E1v2.
I waited until my fridge cycle started for each test, so it took a little time to do. At start up it hovered at around 47W for a minute or so, then increased to the 100W mark in around 10 seconds. This is the inverter fridge soft start.
The results;
(PWMTR = Power Meter - U/DIS = Power Station Display.)
The power meter value is what the fridge is drawing in power and is similar in value in all 3 connections. At 47W = 2W range, at 100W = 5W range.
The anomaly is the E1V2’s displayed value, it’s high and I’ve FWD this to Bluetti. (Awaiting response) Whereas, the AC180 showed a difference of 3 to 4W.
The Good - The fridge is working perfectly in all instances, so the update appears to work. No feedback yet on if this fixes the A/C issue. Weather does not allow me to try another test, yet and I would like guidance from the Tech Guys first.
The Good
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will it run the dehumidifier with the same updates MandP was sent?