Cigarette plug overheating DC Charging Enhancer (D050S)

Metalwork in the cigarette lighter plug has recently become untouchably hot when connected to the DC Charging Enhancer and has twice blown the car’s 20A fuses on two different sockets. This has happened with two different cables, yet it worked fine for months.

Any suggestions for what has gone wrong? Nothing else has changed and it has only ever been connected to my AC200MAX.

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@Rod10 Are you connecting while driving? If so, it may be because the road is bumpy during driving, which may easily cause poor contact and cause overheating.

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Check the little spring inside the plug tip. They can collapse from use and heat which will then cause a poor connection and even more heat, enough to burn your finger. I just had that happen on one of my plugs and found that the spring had completely collapsed and couldn’t return to its normal length.

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I do use it while driving and it is designed for this. Of note, it has only become problematic in recent weeks, having worked flawlessly for months. In addition, it has done so with two different leads, using two different 12v sockets, leading me to think this is a problem with the unit itself.

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Hello, I have exactly the same problem with my 200p.
After 2 minutes the 12V adapter starts to get very, very hot.
I burned myself on the metal part.
I have 3 cigarette lighters, and 2 are damaged after using my bluetti.
I had to replace them.
I’m currently in conversation with bluetti about this.
I will let you know the solution to fix this problem

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I have a number of devices that I use in the rear of my 4x4 and I do off road. Many rural roads are not in the best of condition. Many years ago I realised that cig plugs and sockets were not the ideal connector to power anything when mobile.
Some of my devices are an Engel fridge/freezer @ 3Amps, 12V oven @ 6Amps and a 375W Victron inverter that can draw up to 40Amps. The fridge and oven were fitted with cig plugs at purchase and I noted the Engel at only 3A got too hot to touch, likely caused by a poor connection subject to vibration when driving. This was over 30 years ago, so ever since then, the first thing I do when I fit a device with a cig plug, is cut it off and replace with a 50A Anderson plug.
I should note; I have a rear storage area mounted auxiliary and all outlets are Anderson plugs. The Inverter charges my AC70 & AC180 in Silent mode at 280-290W via 240VAC. If I need to recharge my AC200P (500W power brick) from vehicle, the only way I have found is to use the AC180 to charge the AC200P, then recharge it from the vehicle inverter. Not ideal, but it works for me. (I had most of the kit needed to do this in my tool shed, so no extra cost.)

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I have a jiffy box with input of Anderson and fitted with 3 x cig sockets for small devices when stationary, such as LED lighting.
Items such as a GPS or mobile phone recharger are in the milli amp range and I leave then with cig plug or USB. Even so, they still get warm.

If a vehicle is not fitted with an auxiliary battery, my suggestion is; (if unable to DIY) see an auto electrician, have a fused heavier cable to the start battery installed with an Anderson outlet internal to the vehicle.
I installed a 185A can solenoid under the hood. It is connected to the start battery and ignition switched. My RV trailer, anti sway (2 x external Andersons on the tow bar) and auxiliary battery charger (internal Anderson in the rear) are all connected to its output. This means when I stop the engine, nothing connected to the solenoid is powered and won’t deplete my start battery.
(Note; after the solenoid under the hood, each of the 3 outlets is fused with a midi fuse @ 40A, 40A & 30A)

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