I am interested in the Charger 1. I have a few questions.
Tow vehicle 2023 Toyota Tacoma with 130-amp alternator.
Anything that I should be concerned with the 130-amp alternator?
All videos show the power station is several feet from the Charger 1. My situation makes it more difficult to move the AC200L. I would like to run wiring from the Charger 1 to the RV per my picture.
Any thoughts?
The picture shows two pink ovals. I am thinking there should be two breakers in these areas.
Any thoughts?
How many amp breakers?
I can’t answer Q1 as I don’t know what your other loads are and how much your alternator has to spare.
That said, the input cable is 6AWG an it’s breaker is near the C1. This is not ideal in my opinion as the source breaker should be as close to the source power (start battery) as possible. The breaker, or if used, midi fuse should be 60A, which is what the C1 is rated for.
Your cable from start battery, should terminate at the rear bumper with a 120A Anderson plug SB120 (a 50A is not big enough if max power is used).
You then need to use 6AWG from a mating Anderson on the trailer draw bar to the C1. If the input is CCTBRKR or fused at the start battery, you don’t need another breaker on the input.
Position the c1 as close to the AC200L as possible, use the output cable supplied with MC4 connectors and then to the AC200L Solar input cable. You shouldn’t need to fuse this side if wired properly.
Due to charging my RV house batteries and an Auxiliary in the 4x4 @ 20A , I don’t have enough alternator spare to charge my AC180 in Standard mode at the full 560w output of the C1, so I dial it back to around 35V for 350W and charge in Silent mode.
Just because the C1 will output 560W max, doesn’t mean you need to use that amount. It may be trial and error or you need to connect an OBD2 gauge to check what your alternator is doing. Worst case is Aircon on, headlights and anything else powered in normal use.
Agreed about placing a breaker or fuse as close as possible to the battery, ideally mounted directly on the positive terminal of the battery.
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Additionally, I would install a breaker on the output side of the Charger 1, especially since it will be powering a separate circuit or device. This ensures both input and output lines are protected independently.
This is because the primary role of a fuse or breaker is to protect the wiring, not the devices. That’s why protection is typically placed at the source end of each power line, where the current originates.
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Regarding the physical placement of the Charger 1, I would install it as close to the source battery as possible to minimizes voltage drop on the input side, which is especially important at lower voltages due to higher current draw. Since the Charger 1 is a boost converter (which steps up voltage), it’s more efficient to run longer cables on the higher-voltage output side, where the current is lower, thus reducing energy losses and cable heating.
