What you are describing is my biggest beef with advertising. They make it seem like you can take this power station anywhere, its light as a feather, it can run your dehumidifier/aircon/fridge no problem, etc., but the reality is it severely depends on make and model. In some cases, the inverter logic can’t handle the inrush current, in other cases the compressor demands utility-grade AC power. Finicky electronics as @Mandp stated as well. Instead, Bluetti needs to focus on a whitelist of compatible hardware, including community driven responses, so instead of trying to match any power station to your setup, you can find a compatible one, or you can match the product TO the Bluetti power station of your choice. Or if nothing works you whip out a gas generator and accept it as incompatible.
@sealy1986 I understand your frustration and in some ways agree wholeheartedly. However, as a retired designer, I also know full well that it is almost impossible to design for every appliance that requires electrical energy.
That said, my logic is this; A Bluetti power station, in simple terms, provides AC power via an inverter from a battery. I have friends in a rural environment, that live totally “Off Grid”. Their energy is provided by several hundred Ah @ 48VDC battery banks, charged by 3 solar arrays. That power is then converted via Victron Inverter Chargers on each of the 3 systems. They run lighting, TV, satellite TV, Starlink, washing machines, dish washers, 2 split system air conditioners, kitchen appliances, pumps and much more from these systems. Not one appliance or device powered from any of these supplies has failed to operate perfectly.
My conclusion here can only be that, if everything works, works well, with no issue from one source of inverter energy provision, but the same appliances fail from another source, it can only be an issue with that source.
Edit italicised - Rather than state “an issue with that source”, I will revise to - “It can only be an issue with the interaction between that source and a specific device.” This is because I have found similar devices to work ok and others do not.
I had the same problem with my AC70P and my 2021 Whirlpool fridge. A few other people have commented they have seen the problem too.
A couple of points - ECO mode really should be off when you’re running fridges and/or freezers from your Bluetti otherwise you run the risk of ECO mode switching off whichever output(s) it is set up for.
With regard to the strange behavior of your Whirpool, it would be worth checking that you Bluetti isn’t set to use power lifting mode as that can damage motors and electronics because it works by reducing the AC voltage output by the Bluetti.
i have the same problem with a 2 doors Wirlpool refrigerator ( soft up and down pulsing noise). When the compressor turns on, there is a dip in any of the AC200L uground output. I have a light in my living room plugged in this Bluetti and the light flickers once and fast when the compressor kicks-in. My concern is that this will damage the Wirlpool compressor after a while. I dont use ECO mode and i run the AC200L on solar during the day but at night it will run on grid power because of my SOC settings but this problem will happen no matter what. Do anyone know ( @BLUETTI_CARE ? @BLUETTI ? ) if that behavior of the AC200L could damage my refrigerator compressor on the long run ?
That is a huge fridge, and even without the startup issue, the 100v2 would only run it for 1 hour or so on its 1024WH nominal capacity.
I think the 100v2 inverter is just too small to start that motor without straining, but also the 100v2 itself is too small in terms of battery capacity. Maybe you want an Apex 300 or something on that scale.
Hi @marc-ameritech.net, regarding the issue you raised, we believe it is caused by a power surge from the compressor when the refrigerator starts. Our Elite 100 V2 has firmware that can optimize the impact of high-power loads. Please provide your Elite 100 V2’s SN code and current firmware version so that we can push the update.
Hi @flomotion, regarding the issue you raised, we believe it is caused by a power surge from the compressor when the refrigerator starts.
However, there is no new firmware available for the AC200L. Since it is not compatible, the only option is to upgrade to the latest model.
We believe the Apex 300 is indeed a great choice—please make sure to use the AC output port for your loads.
thanks for the reply @BLUETTI_CARE but does that means the compressor is slowly being damage by the AC output of my AC200L and/or the inverter in the AC200L lifespan will be reduce? I wish it was that easy to just upgrade to the latest model but money does not grows on trees for the most of us. I have to say that i am very disappointed by Bluetti regarding this problem. The AC200L claim to be able to output 2400W and i cannot even run a simple refrigerator that is drawing 150W to 500W depending on the cycle that its currently at.
The issue is the starting surge which can be several kilowatts.
i dont think the surge at start is over 2400W if the refrigerator max out at 550W after the initial surge when the compressor kicks in. That tells me that the inverter can take sustained 2400W output but peak surge is much lower so i am very disappointed by this false advertisement by Bluetti that the AC output is 2400W because that is flat out false.
Hi @flomotion, We completely understand your concern. Please rest assured that this will not affect the lifespan of your AC200L or your refrigerator.
The AC output of the AC200L can indeed provide 2400W, and when Power Lifting Mode is enabled, it can output up to 3600W, allowing you to power resistive loads such as heaters.
As @Paulr mentioned, the starting power of your refrigerator’s compressor is far higher than 2400W, which exceeds the load capacity of the AC200L. You can try using the AC200L to power other high-wattage appliances that do not have compressors or condensers. This way, you can test the actual output performance of the AC200L.
im sorry but my Wirlpool refrigerator is no where near a surge start of 2400W. The model is WRF560SFHZ00. IF you look at the specs and the compressor model the peak load is around 1200W. Here is the logic from Grok AI behind this and it is based on the compressor model manual and refrigerator schematics: The surge or peak load demand when the compressor kicks in for the Whirlpool refrigerator model WRF560SFHZ00 is approximately 1200 watts. This is based on the locked rotor amps (LRA) of the Embraco EM3Z60HLT compressor (around 10 amps) multiplied by the rated voltage (120 volts). The exact value can vary slightly with voltage fluctuations or environmental conditions, but this is the typical inrush power during startup.
On top of that, i can see on the AC200L the peak surge at around the same peak at 1200W being displayed very fast on the AC output section.
If the inverter can take the peak demand at 1200W why the dip down in compressor performance upon starting ? can it be because the inverter is not fast enough ? please expand on this and let me know if my inverter is defective or if this is normal behavior.
Hi @flomotion, Thank you for providing the detailed information. It appears that your refrigerator’s power consumption isn’t very high, but if it still can’t be powered, it’s likely a compatibility issue between the two devices.
If your AC200L can handle other non-inductive loads, that means the unit itself is working properly.
I’m just an old, disabled 75 year and not all that tech savvy. Where do I find the numbers on my Elite 100 unit you ref above (and what do they look like) or where in the factory paperwork can I find them?
Another question, when I bought the Elite 100 it included your 100 Watt solar panel (only good for light rain and weather)/ Also, putting the panel up in my back yard and taking it down in the weather is a bit of a chore. Do you sell a 100 Watt panel that I can set outside permanently then I only need to run the cable to it if I need to in a outage (Rockford, Il. has harsh winters and summers) OR if not, can you recommend an affordable permanent style panel from a panel mfg.?
Many thanks
Hi. How can I get the newest firmware update for Bluetti Elite 100 v2? Just asking here on the forum?
My station will arrive tomorrow. I would like it to work correctly with fridge compressors.
Hi @marc-ameritech.net, We are more than happy to help you.
You can find the SN code on the white barcode located on the back of the Elite 100 V2.
Additionally, we would like to know if you have downloaded our Bluetti app, registered, and bound this Elite 100 V2 to it. When you turn on Bluetooth, the SN code will automatically appear in the app’s device list. We have attached a screenshot for your reference.
Currently, we do not have solar panels that meet your needs. We have also not tested solar panels from other brands, so we cannot recommend any to you. However, we suggest you choose the top-ranked waterproof solar panels on Amazon. Please ensure the open-circuit voltage is between 12V and 60V. In addition, the solar panel should come with an MC4 connector.
For example, if your solar panel has an open-circuit voltage of 24V, we recommend connecting two identical solar panels in series—this will give a total open-circuit voltage of 48V and result in better charging performance.
Please don’t hesitate to reach out to us if you need our help.
Hi @vvvol, Thank you for your attention to BLUETTI.
Please charge the new Elite 100 V2 after receiving it. Once charging is complete, bind it to the Bluetti app, click to update to the latest firmware, and then test its performance when powering the refrigerator. We hope everything goes smoothly.
I have the same problem with my Bluetti Elite 100 v2 and my fridge. The fridge is an LG (with top freezer). The issue is the same described by @marc-ameritech.net, the compressor starts but doing some pulsing noise, and the AC power meter is not stable, change all the time from values between 0 and 300. I don´t know if this behavior can damage my fridge or my Bluetti station. I’ve tried with the same fridge with another power station (Ecoflow River 2 PRO) that is even less powerful than the Bluetti Elite, and with the Ecoflow the AC out meter is stable and the compressor of the fridge works without the pulsing noise. @BLUETTI_CARE. I will attach a short video, you can see the AC out power meter.
Hi @tow3r, this does seem unusual.
We’d like to know if your Elite 100 V2 has displayed any error messages—please check the historical error logs.
Additionally, could you provide the SN code and the current firmware version of your Elite 100 V2?
We will conduct a further analysis of the issue.