Elite 100 v2 review & test

[Mandp]

DISCLAIMER - I have no affiliation with Bluetti other than being a satisfied consumer of their products. (All other power stations owned were purchased by me, other than a X20 awarded me by Bluetti. The X20 will feature in Part 1, not Part 2.)

I am not being paid for this review. However, Bluetti have provided this test unit at no charge and do not require the unit to be returned on completion of the review.
No agreement has been signed with Bluetti. All test, results, comments and conclusions are unbiased and personal opinions.

[Mandp]

UNBOXING

In the box - The Elite 100 V2* - Grid charging cable (** A standard *** 240VAC AU plug top to IEC320-C13 plug) - Solar charging cable with XT60 one end, MC4 plugs the other. - Earth screw for grounding - and user manual. (There is NO 12VDC cigarette plug to XT60 for car charging - Ref Pics).
The unit was shipped at a SOC of 22%. Packing was the usual excellent boxing and polystyrene.

• This Elite 100 V2 is a Pre Production model. According to the provided User Manual, noted accessories are as above.

** The AC cable plug top will vary, dependent on location. The IEC320-C13 to the Elite 100 V2 is the same as other non power brick models in this size range.

*** This review is based on the Grid supply in Australia. Standard grid supply voltage is 230V, with a tolerance of +10% to -6%. This translates to a voltage range of 216V to 253V. The frequency of the electricity supply is 50Hz. At this location it is a stable 240-242 VAC. House has 6.6kW roof top solar, 5kW inverter to house/grid and no installed home battery.

(The review and testing for part 1 is complete. However, if there is a limit on the number of posts per day to the Forum, it may take a little time to post all of it., please be patient.)

[Mandp]

FIRST IMPRESSION

1. Very impressed. (more on that later)
2. Where does it sit in the power station range? - The AC70 is the next smallest by inverter size and Wh capacity. The next size larger is the AC180, which has the same size inverter and slightly more Wh capacity.
3. Due to the AC1V2’s similarity to the AC180, there will be numerous comparisons made. As aesthetic design and weight are similar, the E1V2 is seen as a redesigned AC180 and taking on board suggestions made in last years Redesign the AC180 competition. (Personal Opinion)
4. The added functions of WiFi connectivity and UPS features will be covered further into the review.

[Mandp]

ABREVIATIONS (This post may be edited or added to as the thread progresses)

A1V2 = The Bluetti Elite 100 V2 power station.
V, A & W = Volts, Amps & Watts
SOC = State of Charge (generally as a % of total capacity)
DOD = Depth of Discharge (also as a % of power used of total capacity)
k = kilo or the value multiplied by 1,000 i.e. 2kW = 2,000W
h = Hours or part thereof in time i.e. 1kWh = 1,000W used or supplied over 1 hour
VAC = Volts Alternating Current i.e. normally used when referring to Grid power
VDC = Volts Direct Current i.e. normally used to define battery output power.
GPO - General Purpose Outlet, or, a standard (in AU) 10A wall power outlet socket = 2,400W
AU = Australia (NZ = New Zealand, GB = Great Britain, US = United States
RV = Recreational Vehicle (This includes Camper Trailers and Caravans)
UM = User Manual for the E1V2.
B/T = Bluetooth

Units of measurement definition - Australia uses the Metric system of unit measurement i.e. kilograms, metres, millimetres, degrees Centigrade etc.

If you use the Imperial system of measurement, or different grid voltage, Mr. Google has plenty of conversion calculators.

[Mandp]

These screenshots detail the E1V2 and AC180, highlighting what’s the same, what’s been added, deleted and or improved.
(These are physical differences and do not include what is different in the App.)

As it is 20 min past midnight 1 July, more of this review will be posted tomorrow. I’m off to inspect my eyelids from the inside…

[Mandp]

APP CONNECT - Bluetooth & WiFi

Bluetooth - It’s the same as all other Bluetti conneced PS’s and there’s plenty of info on the Forum and Youtube.

This is the first thing to do as all settings need to be checked. Particularly the Frequency setting for your area. In AU this is 50Hz. Bluetooth was very quick and easy. Grid 50Hz, Eco off, grid enhancement off were all checked.

---

WiFi

After some time and numerous attempts, connecting to WiFi was finally figured out in connecting to the E1V2.
Some screenshots, FYI, of my successful process.

As the test was in the house, WiFi & Bluetooth were turned off in phone settings, making sure Mobile Data was turned on.

There are 3 blue dots at the top right corner of the Elite 100’s icon. Touching them opens a sub menu. (This took some time to figure out as it’s not detailed in the user manual)

In the sub menu cloud was selected.

This then gave full access to the App control of the Elite 100 in the same manner as Bluetooth gives.

To reconnect at a local level via Bluetooth - Turn WiFi & Bluetooth back on in the phone menu. Then open the Bluetti App > My Devices > press the 3 dots to select connect via Bluetooth. This then allows connection to the Elite 100 via Bluetooth and opens its control menu.

A reasonable search on the Bluetti Forum, Main Website, Google and Youtube, could find no instructions for this. Bluetti Admin were advised, I suggested to note this in the Elite 100s User Manual, or, add a note referring the user to the Bluetti web site support page where it could be detailed.

There’s more on Wi-Fi - next post

[Mandp]

When connecting to WiFi, you are asked to enter your WiFi “Name” and its “Password”. This needs to be done before the above connection guide. (The reason for noting here is as follows;)

When the E1V2 was connected to my home network, I noted that, in the App > scrolling down there is a function to change WiFi > Network Settings. This is where when leaving your home fixed WiFi, it can be changed to another i.e. Starlink, Mobile phone or other WiFi connection.

Starlink has a WiFi router, a WiFi Hotspot needs to be turned on in mobile phone settings and a signal is required to use it. You will need to leave a WiFi device at your camp to communicate with the E1V2 and carry another with you to contact it when away from camp.

[Mandp]

GRID CHARGE-WITH & WITHOUT CHARGER 1
The unit was shipped with partial charge, 22%. As such it needs to be charged to 100%. This will be done in a number of ways to test the various inputs.

1. Grid only in all 3 charge modes (Silent, Standard and Turbo) checking input W.
2. A 100Ah LFP deep cycle battery, connected to the Charger 1 input, then to the A1V2’s DC input port, without grid input.
3. As item 2, plus grid for a combined input. Here the input W gradually increased.
   
   

Noise - A dB meter is not available. However, 6 other power stations are, with which to compare, by ear. Is it quieter? - Yes, sitting 5 meters from away, the fan is audible. But noticeably quieter than the AC70, AC180 or AC200P.

Once the E1V2 reached 50% charge, the input sat at 1,164W from combined AC and DC inputs. (DC was briefly disconnected and AC input increased to a similar W.)

Is it hot? - By touch and feel the casing and fan outlet were cool to the touch and fan output felt barely warm. (Ambient was 23C)

The LFP battery is under a 40+ amp load and cool (Alum casing) powering the Charger 1 and is barely warm to the touch.

At 63% SOC charge rate seems to have stabilised at 1,160W. this was expected and will reduce when SOC is higher.

Charge rate slowed at just over 90% SOC, AC input stopped at 95%, with residual charging to 100% from the Charger 1. Charging took 1hr 11 min from 22%SOC to 100%. Of note, when Turbo charging, the charge rate gradually increases to near maximum rated charge. Charger 1’s output was very close to rated maximum and solar input was prioritised. Charge time, at Max, will likely reduce a small amount as several disconnects and brief setting changes were made during the test.

Under normal circumstances, I always charge PS’s in Silent mode. It’s kinder to the longevity of the battery. On the rare occasions a quicker charge is needed, then Standard is set and apart from this first test, Turbo may never be used again.

The next post contains App Screenshots at various SOC until fully charged…

[Mandp]

SOC As shipped

AC Only - Silent Mode

AC Only - Turbo Mode

Charge 1 - Settings

Charger 1 input to E1V2

The next post shows input at various SOC until full…

[Mandp]

SOC Stages

[Mandp]

AC EFFICIENCY TEST

Fully discharge the E1V2 via constant AC load, using a 400W strip heater. Starting at 100% SOC and until the E1V2 shuts down at zero%. An AC power meter is used at the E1V2’s AC outlet, to note V, A and W as well as total Wh used. Then, compared with the rated capacity of the unit. The load is 100% resistive i.e. no fan or thermostat.

E1V2 output voltage was 229.26VAC
E1V2 Display = 361W - P/Meter = 359W
Meter Start 0.11kWh (For some reason it would not zero. A second meter won’t be available until tomorrow)
Finish 1.04kWh = 0.93kWh of actual power use.
@90% of 1024 = 922kWh - 85% of this = 783kWh

Conclusion slightly better than expected and over it’s rated capacity. 1,024Wh rated, 922Wh used, that’s a 90% efficiency. Impressive!
(The heater is rated at 400W (1 bar) it drew 360W and ran for 2hrs 34min, which again longer than expected.)

[Mandp]

The E1V2 is now set to recharge from Zero% in Silent mode from Grid only. This appears to be 595W, double what I see for the AC180. Estimation, around 2 hours to fully charge, that’s quick for the lowest setting.

It actually took 1 hour 51 minutes to go from zero to 100% in Silent mode.

NOTE : At this point it is worth mentioning charge rates. According to the UM - Silent = 600W, Standard = 600W and Turbo = 1,200W.

Bluetti Admin was asked why. This is their response;

In silent mode, if the ambient temperature is high and causes the inverter temperature to rise, it will reduce the charging power; in standard mode, if this situation occurs, it will increase the fan speed. So, Yes there are subtle differences, but initially they both start at 600W.

[Mandp]

USB-C OUTPUT

There are now 2 USB-C PD outlets. The one to the left of the USB-As is rated to 140W, the one to the right at 100W. I have nothing to test the 140W socket, I do however have the X20 PS, which is rated to 100W input with a USB-C PD socket. The X20 currently sits at 54% SOC and has a display. DC can be checked, out on the E1V2 and in on the X20.

The 2 USB-A ports are the same 5VDC-3A for 15W as the AC180. These are all specified as each, not total combined load.

The result - 92W to the X20 from the 100W port and 95W from the 140W port. The E1V2 display showed a load of 100W and 101W respectively.

From the 100W Port

From the 140W Port

[Mandp]

UPS TEST.

Devices - Main TV, Sony 55" OLED smart TV, coupled with a Panasonic DVD-R and HDMI connected at approx. 100-110W combined.

The test will be in 3 parts

1. TV only
2. TV, plus playing a recording from the DVD-R
3. TV streaming from Netflix.

(An AC70 is full time UPS on the home WiFi-Security and Fibre to home box at a total of 25W. It’s not failed yet, also a Pass.)

Tested as above, each 1, 3 times. Nothing turned off, no screen flicker or sound jump, so a big PASS.

AC in pass through.

AC Off - on E1V2 battery.

[Mandp]

1.800W INVERTER TEST
Get as close to the maximum of the 1,800W inverter as possible with the kitchen 240VAC kettle rated at 1,850-2,200W.

The kettle was first load checked from the grid using a power meter at 2,056W. This is higher than the load I want to expose the E1V2 to.

Plan B - Compare time to boil and Wh from grid then the E1V2 = 2 tests using “Power Lifting” mode.

To use the same criteria - Each test used 1 litre of cold tap water. (measured) Between tests, the kettle was refilled with tap water to cool it.
Both tests were timed using a mobile phone stop watch, power measured with an external AC power meter.

Result - A big Pass for the E1V2. Using power lifting, the inverter did not exceed 1,800W, avoiding any damage.

[Mandp]

DC CAPACITY TEST

Check the E1V2’s capacity with a 12V DC load.

E1V2, fully charged to 100% - a short cable with a Cig plug one end, Anderson the other. Then connected to a DC power meter with Anderson plugs each end, - then into a “jiffy” box with Anderson input with cig sockets and finally the Bluetti supplied Cig plug to D7909 plug into the DC input of an AC180. In other words, charging an AC180 from the E1V2.



The AC180’s SOC was 1% at start. As the AC180 has a bigger battery, the E1V2 should fully deplete before the AC180 reaches 100%. The DC meter and recorded time will show the data for the E1V2’s DC capacity as well as just how long Cig plug charging takes. (personal opinion - too long, but, better than nothing.)
App Screenshots

[Mandp]

MAKING SENSE OF THE 3 x 12V DC OUTPUT PORTS.

1. The cig socket is rated 12VDC @ 10A and the 2 x DC5521 ports 12VDC @ 8A, when looking at the power station itself. Here you might think that is 10A+8A+8A = 26A.

2. Go to the user manual and the cig socket is 10A and DC5521 ports are rated at 5A per port for a maximum of 8A total. You may think, 10A+8A = 18A.

3. However, these assumptions are both wrong - As there is a note at the bottom of the user manual specification page that states; “The cig skt and both DC5521 ports are wired in parallel with a total maximum output of 10A. Be careful here, as this is their combined maximum output.”

4. Calculate your total if using all 3 output ports = 10A.

[Mandp]

UPS OPTIONS
The E1V2 has a controllable UPS Feature via the App. There are 4 options;

1. Standard UPS
2. Time Control
   The first screenshot are the timings for my grid supply Peak and Off Peak Tariff times. Set to these times, the E1V2 will charge at Off Peak, from 0100 to 0600 and again from 1000 to 1500 each day. In between these times the E1V2’s battery takes care of business. (Note to monitor load v capacity when on battery).
   The second screenshot only shows 1000 to 1500 as Off Peak.
   Why the difference? - I have roof top solar, which means that the E1V2 is being charged for free between 100 & 1500, whereas overnight with no solar, I pay for power. Therefore if you do not have rooftop solar use settings similar to the first screenshot (Your local timings to apply) and if you have rooftop solar, use the second screenshot settings. Again battery capacity needs to cover times when not charging.
   
   
   
   
   
3. PV Priority - Will be looked at in Part 2
4. Customised - Here is where you can set the lower and higher State of Charge limits. Note - this will reduce overall battery capacity usage. You will need to calculate load over time to ensure continuity.
   
   
   
   These features will be looked at further on the upcoming off grid trip. Anything learned will be noted in Review Part 2.

[Mandp]

NOTE - As mentioned, I have multiple AC70s and AC180s. This UPS feature is not available on these units, I’ve checked. This suggests it is not just an App upgrade feature, but also internal to the hardware of the power station.

[Mandp]

PART 1 OBSERVATION SUMMARY - PERSONAL OPINIONS

1. The Elite 100 V2 is a revamp/upgrade to the AC180.
2. Form factor - The E1V2 is, smaller and lighter than the AC180, by a significant amount, whilst keeping the same sized inverter. A definite plus.
3. The 11% battery capacity reduction is somewhat offset by improved efficiency, whilst still being a very usable and capable power station.
4. The removal of the wireless phone charge pad and 2 USB-A ports may not be appreciated by some, however, adding a 2nd USB-C PD at 140W along with other improvements, helps offset this.
5. The doubling of the DC input Amps to 1,000W is a significant improvement over the 500W of the AC180.
6. It is definitely quieter than the AC180.
7. Adding WiFi to a power station of this size for remote control anywhere there is Cell service is something many have asked for and kudos to Bluetti for adding this function.
8. UPS time controlled charging and charge limits is a definite plus.