Elite 100 v2 review & test

[Mandp]

GRID CHARGE-WITH & WITHOUT CHARGER 1
The unit was shipped with partial charge, 22%. As such it needs to be charged to 100%. This will be done in a number of ways to test the various inputs.

1. Grid only in all 3 charge modes (Silent, Standard and Turbo) checking input W.
2. A 100Ah LFP deep cycle battery, connected to the Charger 1 input, then to the A1V2’s DC input port, without grid input.
3. As item 2, plus grid for a combined input. Here the input W gradually increased.
   
   

Noise - A dB meter is not available. However, 6 other power stations are, with which to compare, by ear. Is it quieter? - Yes, sitting 5 meters from away, the fan is audible. But noticeably quieter than the AC70, AC180 or AC200P.

Once the E1V2 reached 50% charge, the input sat at 1,164W from combined AC and DC inputs. (DC was briefly disconnected and AC input increased to a similar W.)

Is it hot? - By touch and feel the casing and fan outlet were cool to the touch and fan output felt barely warm. (Ambient was 23C)

The LFP battery is under a 40+ amp load and cool (Alum casing) powering the Charger 1 and is barely warm to the touch.

At 63% SOC charge rate seems to have stabilised at 1,160W. this was expected and will reduce when SOC is higher.

Charge rate slowed at just over 90% SOC, AC input stopped at 95%, with residual charging to 100% from the Charger 1. Charging took 1hr 11 min from 22%SOC to 100%. Of note, when Turbo charging, the charge rate gradually increases to near maximum rated charge. Charger 1’s output was very close to rated maximum and solar input was prioritised. Charge time, at Max, will likely reduce a small amount as several disconnects and brief setting changes were made during the test.

Under normal circumstances, I always charge PS’s in Silent mode. It’s kinder to the longevity of the battery. On the rare occasions a quicker charge is needed, then Standard is set and apart from this first test, Turbo may never be used again.

The next post contains App Screenshots at various SOC until fully charged…

[Mandp]

SOC As shipped

AC Only - Silent Mode

AC Only - Turbo Mode

Charge 1 - Settings

Charger 1 input to E1V2

The next post shows input at various SOC until full…

[Mandp]

SOC Stages

[Mandp]

AC EFFICIENCY TEST

Fully discharge the E1V2 via constant AC load, using a 400W strip heater. Starting at 100% SOC and until the E1V2 shuts down at zero%. An AC power meter is used at the E1V2’s AC outlet, to note V, A and W as well as total Wh used. Then, compared with the rated capacity of the unit. The load is 100% resistive i.e. no fan or thermostat.

E1V2 output voltage was 229.26VAC
E1V2 Display = 361W - P/Meter = 359W
Meter Start 0.11kWh (For some reason it would not zero. A second meter won’t be available until tomorrow)
Finish 1.04kWh = 0.93kWh of actual power use.
@90% of 1024 = 922kWh - 85% of this = 783kWh

Conclusion slightly better than expected and over it’s rated capacity. 1,024Wh rated, 922Wh used, that’s a 90% efficiency. Impressive!
(The heater is rated at 400W (1 bar) it drew 360W and ran for 2hrs 34min, which again longer than expected.)

[Mandp]

The E1V2 is now set to recharge from Zero% in Silent mode from Grid only. This appears to be 595W, double what I see for the AC180. Estimation, around 2 hours to fully charge, that’s quick for the lowest setting.

It actually took 1 hour 51 minutes to go from zero to 100% in Silent mode.

NOTE : At this point it is worth mentioning charge rates. According to the UM - Silent = 600W, Standard = 600W and Turbo = 1,200W.

Bluetti Admin was asked why. This is their response;

In silent mode, if the ambient temperature is high and causes the inverter temperature to rise, it will reduce the charging power; in standard mode, if this situation occurs, it will increase the fan speed. So, Yes there are subtle differences, but initially they both start at 600W.

[Mandp]

USB-C OUTPUT

There are now 2 USB-C PD outlets. The one to the left of the USB-As is rated to 140W, the one to the right at 100W. I have nothing to test the 140W socket, I do however have the X20 PS, which is rated to 100W input with a USB-C PD socket. The X20 currently sits at 54% SOC and has a display. DC can be checked, out on the E1V2 and in on the X20.

The 2 USB-A ports are the same 5VDC-3A for 15W as the AC180. These are all specified as each, not total combined load.

The result - 92W to the X20 from the 100W port and 95W from the 140W port. The E1V2 display showed a load of 100W and 101W respectively.

From the 100W Port

From the 140W Port

[Mandp]

UPS TEST.

Devices - Main TV, Sony 55" OLED smart TV, coupled with a Panasonic DVD-R and HDMI connected at approx. 100-110W combined.

The test will be in 3 parts

1. TV only
2. TV, plus playing a recording from the DVD-R
3. TV streaming from Netflix.

(An AC70 is full time UPS on the home WiFi-Security and Fibre to home box at a total of 25W. It’s not failed yet, also a Pass.)

Tested as above, each 1, 3 times. Nothing turned off, no screen flicker or sound jump, so a big PASS.

AC in pass through.

AC Off - on E1V2 battery.

[Mandp]

1.800W INVERTER TEST
Get as close to the maximum of the 1,800W inverter as possible with the kitchen 240VAC kettle rated at 1,850-2,200W.

The kettle was first load checked from the grid using a power meter at 2,056W. This is higher than the load I want to expose the E1V2 to.

Plan B - Compare time to boil and Wh from grid then the E1V2 = 2 tests using “Power Lifting” mode.

To use the same criteria - Each test used 1 litre of cold tap water. (measured) Between tests, the kettle was refilled with tap water to cool it.
Both tests were timed using a mobile phone stop watch, power measured with an external AC power meter.

Result - A big Pass for the E1V2. Using power lifting, the inverter did not exceed 1,800W, avoiding any damage.

[Mandp]

DC CAPACITY TEST

Check the E1V2’s capacity with a 12V DC load.

E1V2, fully charged to 100% - a short cable with a Cig plug one end, Anderson the other. Then connected to a DC power meter with Anderson plugs each end, - then into a “jiffy” box with Anderson input with cig sockets and finally the Bluetti supplied Cig plug to D7909 plug into the DC input of an AC180. In other words, charging an AC180 from the E1V2.



The AC180’s SOC was 1% at start. As the AC180 has a bigger battery, the E1V2 should fully deplete before the AC180 reaches 100%. The DC meter and recorded time will show the data for the E1V2’s DC capacity as well as just how long Cig plug charging takes. (personal opinion - too long, but, better than nothing.)
App Screenshots

[Mandp]

MAKING SENSE OF THE 3 x 12V DC OUTPUT PORTS.

1. The cig socket is rated 12VDC @ 10A and the 2 x DC5521 ports 12VDC @ 8A, when looking at the power station itself. Here you might think that is 10A+8A+8A = 26A.

2. Go to the user manual and the cig socket is 10A and DC5521 ports are rated at 5A per port for a maximum of 8A total. You may think, 10A+8A = 18A.

3. However, these assumptions are both wrong - As there is a note at the bottom of the user manual specification page that states; “The cig skt and both DC5521 ports are wired in parallel with a total maximum output of 10A. Be careful here, as this is their combined maximum output.”

4. Calculate your total if using all 3 output ports = 10A.

[Mandp]

UPS OPTIONS
The E1V2 has a controllable UPS Feature via the App. There are 4 options;

1. Standard UPS
2. Time Control
   The first screenshot are the timings for my grid supply Peak and Off Peak Tariff times. Set to these times, the E1V2 will charge at Off Peak, from 0100 to 0600 and again from 1000 to 1500 each day. In between these times the E1V2’s battery takes care of business. (Note to monitor load v capacity when on battery).
   The second screenshot only shows 1000 to 1500 as Off Peak.
   Why the difference? - I have roof top solar, which means that the E1V2 is being charged for free between 100 & 1500, whereas overnight with no solar, I pay for power. Therefore if you do not have rooftop solar use settings similar to the first screenshot (Your local timings to apply) and if you have rooftop solar, use the second screenshot settings. Again battery capacity needs to cover times when not charging.
   
   
   
   
   
3. PV Priority - Will be looked at in Part 2
4. Customised - Here is where you can set the lower and higher State of Charge limits. Note - this will reduce overall battery capacity usage. You will need to calculate load over time to ensure continuity.
   
   
   
   These features will be looked at further on the upcoming off grid trip. Anything learned will be noted in Review Part 2.

[Mandp]

NOTE - As mentioned, I have multiple AC70s and AC180s. This UPS feature is not available on these units, I’ve checked. This suggests it is not just an App upgrade feature, but also internal to the hardware of the power station.

[Mandp]

PART 1 OBSERVATION SUMMARY - PERSONAL OPINIONS

1. The Elite 100 V2 is a revamp/upgrade to the AC180.
2. Form factor - The E1V2 is, smaller and lighter than the AC180, by a significant amount, whilst keeping the same sized inverter. A definite plus.
3. The 11% battery capacity reduction is somewhat offset by improved efficiency, whilst still being a very usable and capable power station.
4. The removal of the wireless phone charge pad and 2 USB-A ports may not be appreciated by some, however, adding a 2nd USB-C PD at 140W along with other improvements, helps offset this.
5. The doubling of the DC input Amps to 1,000W is a significant improvement over the 500W of the AC180.
6. It is definitely quieter than the AC180.
7. Adding WiFi to a power station of this size for remote control anywhere there is Cell service is something many have asked for and kudos to Bluetti for adding this function.
8. UPS time controlled charging and charge limits is a definite plus.

[Mandp]

CONCLUSION

1. If the Elite 100 V2 is meant to be a revamp/upgrade of the AC180, I think Bluetti have nailed it. To fit so much in such a small space is, in my opinion, engineering excellence. The deletion of 2 outputs and slightly less capacity, weighed against, all of the additions and improvements definitely tip the scales to the plus side. It’s a Winner for me.

Note - Lab or Bench testing has its place, however, I, as would many users, be more interested in; Will it do what I want it to in the “Real World”, either at home, or out “Bush”? (Wilderness). That will be Part 2.

Thank you for reading…

[Mandp]

Bound to happen, lol, one more.
Ground Test.
Ref Pic below - Items used - Elite 100 v2, multimeter, E1V2 240VAC power cable and an Earth (Ground) test cable.

1. The Earth test cable has a 3 pin plug top each end with only the Earth pin connected to the grey 3 core cable. (Active and Neutral wires are cut off at the outer insulation and not connected to their respective plug top terminals. This is 100% a safety feature as live pins are dangerous).
   The reason for the test cable is, poking multi meter probes into sockets is not wise.
2. Continuity was checked between the AC input ground, both AC output sockets and the ground screw terminal in all combinations.

Are they interlinked? - YES, all good. The next post will highlight why this is important.

[Mandp]

Tomorrow, I am having some work done to my house grid circuit breaker box, to add generator transfer circuit breakers and a generator AC socket with pins. This will allow use of my AC180’s and AC200P to power some of the house during a grid failure. This is the CCTBRKR layout now;

The are, currently, 2 RCD safety switches - the one to the left protects the main aircon and 2 x power circuits. The one to the right, protects the bedroom aircon and the lighting. The five breakers to the right are RCDOs, which protect individual circuits.
The issue here is that if a device on the power circuit trips the RCD, both power circuits and the aircon lose power, making it difficult to trace. The one to the right might be an issue with the bedroom aircon, which also trips all lighting, which at night is a huge issue.
The first, change will be to remove the 2 RCD’s and then replace the 5 circuit breakers with RCDO circuit breakers, which will free up 4 slots.
More…

[Mandp]

1. I have decide to only put the 4 power RCDO’s on the gen trfr switch and not the lights. These 4 will give power to all 240VAC GPO outlets within the house and 3 external ones, one of which is the instant hot water IGN.
   Why no lights? - I have a number of plug in LED lights i.e. 2 desk lamps, a stand light, bedside lights and more.
   However, during a grid out, a house light can be switched on, but as there is no power not be lit. When the grid is restored, the light comes on and signals me to turn the transfer switch back to Grid.
2. The 2 aircons and electric oven will only be grid connected. Other high load items in the house are - Front load washing machine, vacuum cleaner, microwave, electric kettle and other kitchen appliances. These are normally plug in to wall GPOs, so it’s personal policing to not use them when using Bluetti power.
3. As we have the instant H/W and a gas cooktop, coupled with Bluetti transfer switched AC power, the house will provide; H/W for showers, Cooktop cooking and a gas kettle for coffee, lights as deployed, Internet, TV, Laptops, device charging and, most importantly the main house fridge.
4. The constant total load for all of this, with occasional spikes, is calculated in the range of 400-500W. With all power stations I have a total of 12kW of inverter and 8kWh of capacity. This gives around 16-20 hours without recharge. The cost has been half that of a home battery.
5. During use, I can “Daisy chain” 2 or 3 together (power out from one to input the next) and as one depletes, recharge it from, solar, generator or vehicle.

Not specifically a part of this review, but, an example of what Bluetti can be used for, even the smaller ones.

[Mandp]

To add to the above Gen Trfr posts.
There is, in Australia, a thing called “Virtual Power Plant” (VPP). This is where a group of homes with roof top solar and home battery, combine their solar feed to grid and where the Power Authority “PA” can use their batteries as firming load to stabilise the grid.
This means that through the Smart Meter of each house, the PA have control over, what they supply in grid power to the house, switching on and off of home solar panels and diverting stored energy from “your” battery to the grid. Hence the name VPP. In other words full control.

This is why I chose to go down the path of power station back up. As I only have roof top solar, which the PA still have switching access, (see note **) when the grid fails, I control backup supply.

I am not on a VPP energy plan, but, given the above, if I install a home battery, can the PA, in the future, take my stored energy? I don’t know, but also not prepared to risk this scenario.

My only concern is to have back up energy, when I need it and under my control.

Note ** - If a power line breaks, technicians are called in to repair it. If the PA do not turn all rooftop solar on that circuit off, the inverters connected to those panels are still sending power back down the unbroken lines to the break. This would expose those technicians repairing the line to electrocution.

[Mandp]

To conclude the Genny Trfr posts - The electrician is currently installing it and power to the house is OFF.
I have the following items individually powered from several Bluetti power stations.

1. Main TV area and across to a laptop, LED desk light, phone charging.
2. Household fridge - 520lt
3. Office room (where my wife is currently) 32" TV, Laptop, LED desk lamp and the heater used in the AC capacity test (1 bar at 360W.
4. WiFi router, fibre optic node and security camera hub.

The total power draw for all of the above added from each power station’s display is 556W. This is what would be used, give or take a little, in a grid outage.

I’m also boiling a gas for a coffee on the stove top. It has a piezo ignition from the grid, thankfully we have a box of matches.

This means, even an AC70’s 1,000W inverter could run a grid outage here. The issue here is runtime, so augmenting capacity would be needed. It also means that with the AC200P’s 2kW inverter, everything in the house could be powered except for the washing machine and main A/C as the bedroom A/C is within its power range.

Therefore a “balancing act”, of only using what is needed to survive.