Well that’s another good point… my transfer switch works with AFCI/GFCI breakers, I actually have two in my transfer switch that works with grid/gas-gen/ac300s with no issues.
I just completed my test with my transfer switch connect and running the same grid power off/on tests. uploading video now.
If you haven’t you may want to watch my video that I created for Bluetti support on “my” issue… I’m not sure if they are related to this issue, but apart of my testing this morning with my transfer switch connected included testing of spike loads… I have documented issues with spike loads when the grid ac is plugged in and then shown that it works perfectly fine if you run just off battery/solar.
Another thing I caught this morning was that when I did the spike loads the AC300 shut off outbound AC… it would not restore outbound AC until I went over to my transfer switch and cycled the breaker that held that load. As soon as I did so, the AC300 automatically restarted outbound AC… which caught me by surprise…
Check out this link that I just came across On transfer switch installation. go to the section that talks about needing a new transfer switch and neutral bonding and the reliance neutral kit.
Here is another link
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/143483/code-how-can-a-transfer-switch-not-switch-neutrals
Good find!.. He is talking about the fact that the generator that he is using is a bonded neutral. I can’t 100% say what the AC300 is… when not connected to grid or a transfer switch it is floating… but when connected to the grid for charging, or at least when I connect it to my transfer switch it’s bonded… probably because of my main panel when charging and because of my transfer switch when running my loads.
He also referenced the x-series that I mentioned above that does switch it… but you said you found a kit? Is this for your existing transfer switch?
I don’t know. I sent an email to Guenter from reliance support asking him about the neutral kit. Don’t know if the neutral kit is the same as the XRK0303 from their Panel/Link X series. I should ask Guenter about as well. But more is making sense now.
Well I hope we can figure this out… just got off the phone with Matthew ( mjb8706), about this subject… the AC300 works great as long as you don’t introduce grid AC power for charging… so hopefully we can get this resolved together. I’ll do some research on the reliance switches and see if I can find a work-around
Yeah I remember Matthew was the person whose ac300 popped and had to replace it. We we talking early on this issue. Now my ac300 experienced the same pop/issue he experienced.
So I decided to look at the official Bluetti transfer switch. If you look at their manual you’ll see in the schematics on neutrals (pg 15), you will see that they switches the 2 hots and the neutrals for each power source. They are isolated from each other.
The video uploaded… here is my test this morning with my Generac 50 amp transfer switch connected:
This is great info guys, thanks for the postings!
That article in the stack exchange is about my exact transfer switch!
I watched your transfer switch video @twister36 – very interesting. I think I will have to replace my transfer switch and may go with that one knowing it (mostly) works. I wonder: could that outlet that is tripping be somehow “catching” the problem allowing the AC300 to then not fault? Could you try repeating the test after the outlet has tripped but not reseting it? Just a long shot but…
Could you also tell me the model number of that Generic switch? Thank you!
Yeah I noticed that earlier too… the Bluetti is technically a sub panel which from my understanding means you actually move the circuits out of the main panel to the sub panel (versus a transfer switch that keeps them in the main panel and just ‘splices’ into them). Their manual is a little light on details.
Someone please correct me if I’m wrong on the difference between a sub- and transfer- panel though.
Here is the link to my model, but just a warning you are going to lose some functionality. On yours you can move each circuit independently. On mine every circuit in my transfer switch moves together… I can only have one source of power at a time.
That’s not correct.
A sub panel is a panel that does not have the ground and neutrals connected together, does not switch the source of power and does not require a main disconnect at this panel.
A transfer switch is a subpanel that simply changes the source of power, but follows the same rules of a sub-panel for everything else.
Thanks… have to admit that is a deal-breaker for me. I want to be able to control what is drawing power to limit battery use to just what I need at a particular time.
I can’t seem to find anyone who sells the Reliance X-series. It looks like they have been discontinued.
I would call your local commercial electrical supply store… they may have some still in stock.
Can you open the top half of your Reliance? I would like to see what it looks like to see if there is something you can do.
I just got off the phone with Reliance support. He was explaining that the xseries has very little product support information and not sold by your local home depot type outlets. The xseries products are distributed by electrician supply houses. He say the product is normally installed by electricians and not the home owner. He says the xseries will switch the neutrals. It also costs less than a transfer switch because of less complex wiring no breakers included. He said I can move the breakers from my reliance 510C transfer switch. I think It needs to be fed by a 30a breaker from the main panel similar to being a subpanel.
I also got clarification in regards to the neutral kit. The Reliance transfer switch comes with only regular breakers. To replace a breaker in the switch to an ACFI breaker for bedroom and family rooms by code, I thought all you needed to do was to swap it out of the switch and put in an ACFI breaker. Support said no, you need to install the neutral kit so that the switch and ACFI breaker can have a neutral to access. Thus the kit allows for the individual neutral connections.
ah that makes sense, an AFCI pigtails to the neutral bar to work… so without that you can’t do AFCI. So that also means that there is no way to “fix” the neutral issue on your current transfer switch I assume?
Ah, so the neutral kit just adds a neutral bar, it doesn’t switch them.
Not sure whether to try to hunt down an X-Series, or look for an alternative… anyone know of any other choices?
Your still not going to like the X-Series either… look closely at it… you can not switch each circuit independently… it’s exactly like mine… one source of power for everything:
http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Documents/XRC%20Tech%20Spec%20108A.pdf